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GMC Forum: Anyone know what the intake torque specs are for a 1996 gmc yukon?
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:49 PM
Steve P Steve P is offline
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Default Anyone know what the intake torque specs are for a 1996 gmc yukon?

I have a 1996 gmc yukon with a 5.7l(350) that i have to do an intake gasket in. I dont know what im soposed to torque the bolts to. I could buy a book, but i dont want to because its 30 bucks and i dont want to spend that just to get a number. Can anyone help me?
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:50 PM
The one and Only The one and Only is offline
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Do not listen to Adrian, that is WAY too much torque for the intake, you will end up cracking it if you put that much torque on it. 30 lbs sound pretty right. We have a 96 blazer and we replaced the intake gasket and it called for like 15lbs of torque for the intake and it was the 4.3l engine. If your not completely sure, tighten them until they are snug, then give a 90 degree turn. hope i helped
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Old 03-21-2010, 01:50 PM
Adrian G Adrian G is offline
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Step 1- 27 inch Lbs step 2- 106 inch lbs step 3- 133 inch lbs. Remember to tightened the bolts in sequence starting from the middle bolts and working your way out. Use thread lock also.
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Old 03-21-2010, 10:04 PM
Molson02536 Molson02536 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve P View Post
I have a 1996 gmc yukon with a 5.7l(350) that i have to do an intake gasket in. I dont know what im soposed to torque the bolts to. I could buy a book, but i dont want to because its 30 bucks and i dont want to spend that just to get a number. Can anyone help me?
The Aluminum intake manifold on a 96 + Vortec 5.7 liter engine should have 8 bolts total, located in the 4 corners of the manifold. The Torque order is the center bolts in an "X" pattern followed by the outers in a line pattern. Following the cylinder numbers of 1 - 8 (1, 3, 5, 7 on drivers side, and 2, 4, 6, 8 on passenger) you would tighten them down 3, 6, 4, 5 for the "X" pattern, then 7, 8, 2, and finish on 1. You tighten them down in steps 1st round goes to 26 in lbs. 2nd round to 106 or 116 in lbs. Then last round is 11 ft lbs The Haynes manual is correct on that but they do not mention the ft lbs behind 11 on that last step, and also recheck after 500 miles and again after 5,000 miles to ensure the bolts are seated properly and have not loosen.

Good luck and hope this helps. if you have not bought the Intake gasket yet, buy the up grade gasket. They are much better and will not leak, Fel Pro MS98000T is a totally new design gasket for the Vortec heads and No plastic. Specs in 3 stages, depending on your gasket's manufacturer. These stages may have different specs, but the Fel-Pro set has a little note attached to it that lists the stages

Last edited by Molson02536; 03-22-2010 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:23 PM
Molson02536 Molson02536 is offline
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Originally Posted by Molson02536 View Post
The Aluminum intake manifold on a 96 + Vortec 5.7 liter engine should have 8 bolts total, located in the 4 corners of the manifold. The Torque order is the center bolts in an "X" pattern followed by the outers in a line pattern. Following the cylinder numbers of 1 - 8 (1, 3, 5, 7 on drivers side, and 2, 4, 6, 8 on passenger) you would tighten them down 3, 6, 4, 5 for the "X" pattern, then 7, 8, 2, and finish on 1. You tighten them down in steps 1st round goes to 26 in lbs. 2nd round to 106 or 116 in lbs. Then last round is 11 ft lbs The Haynes manual is correct on that but they do not mention the ft lbs behind 11 on that last step, and also recheck after 500 miles and again after 5,000 miles to ensure the bolts are seated properly and have not loosen.

Good luck and hope this helps. if you have not bought the Intake gasket yet, buy the up grade gasket. They are much better and will not leak, Fel Pro MS98000T is a totally new design gasket for the Vortec heads and No plastic. Specs in 3 stages, depending on your gasket's manufacturer. These stages may have different specs, but the Fel-Pro set has a little note attached to it that lists the stages

Just finished doing intake gaskets on a friends '97 GMC Serria 1500 4X4 with the 5.7L Vortec engine (vin R). It took me a couple of weekends (20 hrs or so), not counting the problem mentioned later. He also spent about $200 on supplies. I recommend flushing your coolant and replacing your cap and rotor while doing this job. Here is what we did, and what I've learned.

1- Disconnect Neg. Batt. Terminal and (flush) drain coolant
2- Remove air inlet tube and vortec cover
3- Remove the ac comp. and swing it over to the other side, keep hoses in tact.
4- Disconnect and LABEL all electrical plug-ins connected to the manifold, also undo the plug to the Alt., Crank Pos. censor, and P. Steering (goes down the front and underneath.)
5- Pull wire-loom up and out of the way and tie it back with a bungee cord or similar.
6- There is a bracket on the pass. Side rear that needs to come off too. I cut mine in half and only removed the top portion. (the back bolt is hard to get to).
7- Disconnect upper rad. Hose, heater hoses, throttle cables, pvc devices, ign. coil, egr hose, and anything else connected to the manifold, that wont come off with it. You DO NOT need to remove the upper half of the manifold from the lower!!!
8- Remove the A/C bracket and P/S pump as a UNIT and set aside. There are 4 bolts in the front, and 2 underneath. You DO NOT need to pull the p/s pulley off!!! You do not need to remove the alternator either.
9- Disconnect the spark plug wires from the dist. and remove the dist. cap. It is VERY important that you mark the location of the rotor in relation to the dist. AND the location of the dist. in relation to the intake. If you don’t, you will be putting it on a scanner to set the timing.
10- Carefully remove the distributor. Notice how the rotor turns when you pull it out and remember it’s location so you can get it back in correctly.
11- Relive pressure from the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel lines at the back of the manifold near the trans.
12- Loosen bolts on valve covers, and break seal, do not need to remove them.
13- Unbolt and remove manifold.

Once the manifold is off, clean out the lifter valley and cover it with clean rags to keep gunk out. Remove old gaskets and clean mating surfaces well.

NOW is the BEST time to replace the “quick disconnect nipple” for the heater hose on the manifold, because it will break off, and you will be drilling it out. Unfortunately this is how it is. Carefully drill out what’s left of the nipple and clean out the threads with a tap or whatever you have. DO NOT use an “easy-out” and brute force!!! I cracked the boss doing this (followed by several foul words! and had to get it welded. Get the STEEL replacement from the dealer, and use some Teflon tape when installing.

When you put the gaskets on, use RTV on the valley ends (there is no gasket) and also put some around the coolant ports. Carefully replace the manifold (so you don’t smear RTV all over) and bolt down to specs. (Three stages, 11ft.lbs. is final value) Use some thread sealer or equivalent. Do not over-torque!
Hook everything back up. Replace your cap and rotor, refill coolant, and change the oil.

Remember, yours may be different, and I may have forgotten something (it’s been a week now). But this will guide you in the right direction. GOOD LUCK!
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