I really wonder'd why you'd stab it and nothing would happen lol. My F350 with 44" boggers will roast'em on the pavenment but not my little GMC with a 350.
I think ill have it just all turned off. I got the valve body pulled, rebuilt, and reamed out with new solenoids, .510 boost valve, B&M shift kit, with corvette servo's. I think that would really help with the red light take off's
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Do you really think a PCM program will make that much of a difference with mid grade gas?
0.510 Boost valve may be to hard and you may end up cracking the sunshell
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Below is a list of the weak points in a 4L60E transmission. These need an upgrade when putting more than ~300 horsepower through a 4L60E:
- Input drum
- Overrun clutch hub
- Output shaft
- Input sprag (for extended high speed/load use in 4th)
- Sun gear shell
By the way, when General Motors upgraded the 4L60E from a torque rating of 360 ft·lb to 380+ ft·lb to make it the 4L65E, they made the following changes:
5 pinion input and reverse gear sets (4L60E have 4 pinion gear sets), heat treated stator shaft splines, induction hardened turbine shaft splines,
heavy duty low/reverse roller clutch, seven 3-4 clutch plates (six plates in a 4L60E), shot-peened output shaft, revised valve body calibration.
Pumps for the 4L60E can be found in 10 vane and 13 vane versions. Use the 13 vane pump. The 13 vane pump does not have a higher pump volume than the 10 vane pump. Instead, the number of vanes was changed to alter harmonics that caused the rotors to break up. You may also want to get the heavier duty 'unbreakable' pump rings from TransGo. If you use a teflon pump bushing, always apply Locktite® to it so that it cannot move forward. This is a common leakage problem with the 4L60E. Always replace the rear stator bushing since it is the sealing point for lubrication. On a performance build, you should replace all the bushings. It is inexpensive to do (if you have the tools). You also want to make sure that the splines on the stator are in good shape. Replace the boost valve with a Sonnax valve or TransGo, as these are frequently worn out.
The boost valve and sleeve in the pump should be replaced every 40,000 miles (65,000km) to avoid damage to the transmission. Damage can occur when wear in the boost sleeve causes insufficient line pressure in reverse. Many major repairs of the 4L60E at around 50,000 plus miles are because of the boost valve and sleeve. The valve and sleeve can be replaced easily during a routine service of the transmission for around $50. This should be considered a necessary procedure if you are transplanting one into your car. Oversized (0.490" versus the stock 0.470" or 0.420") reverse boost valves are available that provide a moderate increase in pressure, and are a good addition to any 4L60E. As well, the pressure regulator valve (located under the reverse boost valve) should have two small 'flats' (~3/16" wide) ground on the second land - counting the lands from the end opposite that spring seat (or alternatively it should be replaced with an updated valve that has these flats).
Put a straight edge across the band surface and make sure it is absolutely straight. The drum tends to become dished over time, which doesn't allow the band to make full contact over the full width. The center will be really low and the two outside edges high. A quick glance at the band will show you where it burned on the edges and the middle is still new. If your reverse drum is not perfectly straight, replace it.
Do not use Kevlar bands. Kevlar, the material bullet proof vest are made from, is very hard material which does not have the holding capacity of other, more conventional materials. If you are making a lot of horsepower, you will have excessive slippage on the 1-2 shift with a Kevlar band. Instead of Kevlar, use a performance band made by ALTO. The band is a wider and provides much better holding capacity than the Kevlar band. Shifts are crisper and the durability is very good with the ALTO band.
Input drum: This is the weakest component of the 4L60E transmission. The 3-4 clutches tend to burn up. Buy a 3-4 clutch set called the Raybestos Max Pac. Don't use Kevlar (see above) and don't use the Raybestos blue plate clutch set. The Max Pac is an 8 clutch set (instead of 6 in the stock clutch).
Some companies sell a 9 clutch set. You will get more clutch area, but with reduced the thickness of the steel plates. The thin steel plates will distort and burn in high power situations, so stay away from them. Also, the Max Pac instruction require you to drill a 0.035" (0.9mm) hole at the back of the drum. This hole prevents any possibility of a centrifugal apply of the clutches. On the 3-4 clutches, clutch clearance should be kept to a minimum, aim for 0.010" (0.25mm). This allows for faster 2-3 shifts and no burnt clutches.
The forward clutches apply ONLY when you shift from neutral to drive. Then they remain on throughout the entire time you are driving forward. These clutches do NOT come on and off while you are driving, and as a result they experience minimal wear. You should focus on the clutches that come on while at high torque is delivered from the engine, as those are the clutches that get burned up. So use stock clutches (such as the Borg Warner brand) for the forward and over run sections. Keep the original front planet and ring gear, they have proven to be reliable in high power applications.
The sun shell is a very weak point in the 4L60E transmission. This weakness must be addressed in high power applications. Always replace the sun shell. The best shell is the "BEAST" from SPX, they are nearly unbreakable. The Beast or the GM #24221190 revised sun shell kit has worked in most cases, however the sun shell is always going to be a concern. The revised GM sun shell rarely fails and if it does, it's most likely to strip the teeth off the sun shell.
