2001 GMC Jimmy, rear brake line is blown, bleeder valve is froze up, should I...

cadillacmanron

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...have to replace the caliper? I was told by the shop that the bleeder and the caliper is an integrated unit and because the bleeder is froze up the caliper would have to be replaced. Is this true? Why couldn't they just drill out the bleeder and retap a new one?
 
Replace the caliper... When it comes to your brakes... Dont half-as* anything... It could be your life or some childs' life you're endangering...
 
first don't heat it. there are rubber parts in that caliper and with enough heat brake fluid will burn. you might be able to get it out with an easy out but probably not cause that screw bottoms out in the hole. if you take the line loose to bleed it all you do is get the air out of the line not out of the caliper. doesn't a 2001 jimmy have drum brakes on the rear? if it is drum brakes get a new wheel cyliner they cost about 15$. if it is disk brakes the caliper runs about 50$. small price to pay to know that your gonna be able to stop at the next red light
 
Heat it up {the screw} with a little torch, then try to unscrew it. If it breaks then just tap it out. You don't need to spend money you don't have to. If you can handle tapping it out that is the way to go. Keep in mind garages are in the business to make money.
 
This is a pretty common problem. usually the bleeder screw just breaks off which isn't the worst thing. soak it in a good penetrant like PB Blaster for a few hours and use an easy out and it should come out. If its not broke off try loosening it with a GOOD pair of vise grips. the ones with the teeth still intact.
 
Maybe you can just have someone push on the brake pedal while you slowly loosen the brake line to that cylinder, letting brake fluid slowly leak out. Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. Then, while the pedal is still being held down, tighten the brake line. It's worth a try, and since the old bleeder screw is in there tight, there's no safety hazard.
 
I've had 100% success with this method:

If the bleeder screw is mangled from vise grips, etc. then grind it with an angle grinder until the hole in the middle of the screw is round and nicely centered.

Use a succession of left-hand drill bits of increasing size, centered on the hole. Use your judgment to avoid drilling too deep. Sooner or later, the bit will back out the screw.

Use a magnet and a Q-Tip to remove any stray shavings.

When buying a new bleeder screw, don't just eyeball it. Even within the same thread sizes there can be subtle differences in the angles of the sealing faces at the bottom of the screws. If you get the wrong angle, the screw will fit but it will leak. It's best to look up the proper screw by vehicle make, model, and year.

If you do manage to mess up the threads in the caliper (or cylinder) -- well, you haven't really lost anything because with the screw stuck in there you were looking at a new caliper anyway.
 


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