2001 Sierra 4WD Hub Removal

2001 GMC Sierra

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Hello all, this is my first post. I've been a long time GM truck owner. My 1987 Silverado went 250-k miles and lasted 20 years. My 2001 Sierra may not make it that long. Anyway, 4 years ago I changed the drivers side 4WD hub. It took around 3 hours. One hour to jack the truck, remove the hub nut, remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper and remove the 3 bolts behind the hub. Then it took me an hour to pound the hub out with a chisel and an hour to put everything back together.

FOr the last week I've been trying the change the passenger side hub. The only difference is 4 more years of rust and corrosion. I'm at the point where nothing I do is loosening the hub assembly. So, I decided to remove the steering knuckle and have the hub pressed out. The top ball joint is loose, the steering linkage is loose, but the taperedd shaft in the lower ball joint won't release from the knuckle. I've tried the pickle fork, lifting up on the end of the ball joint with a 3 ton jack, hitting both sides of the knuckle with sledge hammers and nothing has worked. I tried heating it with a MAP torch, and that didn't help. I've been looking for other tools to use to press the ball joint up, but not quite sure what I should get. Any ideas out there are greatly appreciated. TIA ... Ron
 
Hello all, this is my first post. I've been a long time GM truck owner. My 1987 Silverado went 250-k miles and lasted 20 years. My 2001 Sierra may not make it that long. Anyway, 4 years ago I changed the drivers side 4WD hub. It took around 3 hours. One hour to jack the truck, remove the hub nut, remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper and remove the 3 bolts behind the hub. Then it took me an hour to pound the hub out with a chisel and an hour to put everything back together.

FOr the last week I've been trying the change the passenger side hub. The only difference is 4 more years of rust and corrosion. I'm at the point where nothing I do is loosening the hub assembly. So, I decided to remove the steering knuckle and have the hub pressed out. The top ball joint is loose, the steering linkage is loose, but the taperedd shaft in the lower ball joint won't release from the knuckle. I've tried the pickle fork, lifting up on the end of the ball joint with a 3 ton jack, hitting both sides of the knuckle with sledge hammers and nothing has worked. I tried heating it with a MAP torch, and that didn't help. I've been looking for other tools to use to press the ball joint up, but not quite sure what I should get. Any ideas out there are greatly appreciated. TIA ... Ron

This should help, your going to need to get a loner tool to remove the lower ball joint on your Sierra. Here is a link on the tool you need and how it's used.

Good luck and keep up the great work. ;) http://cache01.voyageurweb.com/otctools.com/newcatalog/products/537545.pdf
 
Thanks for the quick reply, but that tool is used to remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. I need a tool to force the tapered/threaded part of the ball joint so it disconnects from the steerning knuckle. It would work like the pickle fork, but hopefully apply more pressure... Ron
 
Check U-tube for balljoint pop technique it uses a 1/2in ratchet handle between the lower knuckle and lower control arm then step down on the knuckle and if need be a smack of a hammer at the same time.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have used 2 3-ton bottle jacks between the control arms, a pickle fork and a 6' spud bar without success. I just ordered a new Dorman replacement steering knuckle for the passenger side for $87.00. I'm going to cut a slot in the old steering knuckle parallel to the ball joint shaft with my die grinder and toss the old knuckle. Then a wedge in the knuckle to break the rust.

I also saw a post on utube for a product called "Hub Buster" that pops the hub out, but the email address in PA was bogus.

Boy these trucks rust alot. My '87 made it 20 years. I'll be lucky to get 15 years with this truck... Ron
 
Thanks for the reply. I have used 2 3-ton bottle jacks between the control arms, a pickle fork and a 6' spud bar without success. I just ordered a new Dorman replacement steering knuckle for the passenger side for $87.00. I'm going to cut a slot in the old steering knuckle parallel to the ball joint shaft with my die grinder and toss the old knuckle. Then a wedge in the knuckle to break the rust.

I also saw a post on utube for a product called "Hub Buster" that pops the hub out, but the email address in PA was bogus.

Boy these trucks rust alot. My '87 made it 20 years. I'll be lucky to get 15 years with this truck... Ron

I had to replace the rear hub on my wife's Montana and had issues also. I had to spray a 50/50 mixture of transmission fluid and brake fluid to the hub over night and then the next day loosen the 4 bolts on the hub about 3/4 out and place the wheel back on and drop the van back down on the ground to break the hub free.

It work great and just took another 30 min to finish up the job. I am not looking forward on doing the front when that day comes. :eek:

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I just wanted to end this post on a positive note. I was unable to pop the lower ball joint out of the steering knuckle, so I bought a new steering knuckle along with a new hub and cut a slot in the old steering knuckle with my 4" die grinder. I put a chisel in the slot and broke the lower ball joint out in about 15 minutes. Everything was loose, so I started today at 12:15 and finished a little after 2:00 pm. I have less than $150 in a new hub and new steering knuckle, the ball joint boots didn't get cut and my ABS alarm is out. I used anti-seize so if there is a next time, maybe it won't be as difficult.

Luckily, I could drive my Saab (also a GM product) while I waited for the knuckle. The one thing that I was surprised about the most was how much rust there is on the '01 Sierra compared to my '97 Saab 900 turbo. Thanks for all the suggestions... Ron
 


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