I got a concrete nail in my sidewall yesterday and decided It was time for new tires. A friend of mine told me he's got a nice set of tires I can have for really cheap but theyre 33" tires. I was thinking about doing a torsion bar lift in the front and just shackles on the rear but idk if the torsion bar lift is high enough for 33" tires. If anyone has any ideas it would be appreciated thanks
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How much lift to fit 33" tires?
- Thread starter 97jimdawg
- Start date
Well Im ar far from an expert but i have been reading, it sounds like (in several forums i have read) you can get 33" on with just torsion bars and a 2 inch shacklesin the back. I ahve no idea how close this would be.. I have read about some frame rubbing with the tire. But its not so simple (again, if my reading is correct) torsion lift will put some strain on balljoints.. and depeneding on millage and year of your it may already be lose or worn.. GOOGLE and the search engine here are your friends.. there are several forums out there.. as I wont advertise for oher forums here.. just google blazerforum and you should get where you are going. they will have a bit more info on lifts. Of course the search here should have info too.
Sorry i read 2" inch lift should get you to 31" tires.. not 33" here is something ripped from BLAZERSFORUM.COM which ripped it from a s-10 forum.. Please do not read this is FACT, its a list posted on the internet, with all things on the internet verify and use at your own risk.
I grabbed this from another site *cough*s10forum*cough*88-S-Dime did a great job with this list.... lol.. Its great list of info about each lift Kit.
Lift kits available for your IFS 4x4 S-series
Superlift 2" lift kit:
This kit comes with new torsion bar adjuster keys that attach to the rear end of the torsion bars. These load the torsion bars and determine vehicle ride height. Replacement tubular, upper control arms make realignment possible. For rear lift, the options are add-a-leafs and/or shackles. This lift is known to cause premature wear of CV boots, ball joints, idler arms and pitman arms due to the more severe angles created by the upper a-arms and t-bar crank. Although 2" to 3" can be achieved using this lift, that is the maximum and will increase wear.
Rough Country 2" lift kit:
This kit is very similar to the Superlift 2" lift. It also comes with new torsion bar adjuster keys to lift the front and new upper control arms. For rear lift it provides shackles. Also included are front shock relocation brackets and polyurethane bushings.
Trailmaster 5" lift kit:
This kit comes with differential drop bracketry which helps maintain factory C.V. joint angles. It includes new steering center link tie-rod extensions and shocks. However, because it utilizes stock upper a-arms, you need to cut them for shock clearance. Rear lift is achieved by relocating the leaf springs from bottom to top of axle. This lift is also not without problems, in some trucks there doesn't seem to be enough camber adjustment, which causes the insides of both front tires to wear VERY badly due to the tops of the tires are still laid in about 2.5 degree's. This is caused by the way in which drop brackets are mounted. If they are a fraction of an inch off it could cause this problem. The best correction is adding the upper control arms from the Superlift 2" or Rough Country 2" lift. Depending on the amount you go off-road, you will see premature wear of idler arms, pitman arms and halfshafts. If you use the kit with stock, cut upper control arms they may break.
BDS 5" Lift kit:
These kits also use differential drop bracketry. However, instead of tie-rod extensions, a dropped center steering link is supplied as well as new upper control arms for appropriate shock clearance. Also included are brake line relocation brackets and one-piece front & rear cross members that increase frame rigidity and are locked together with a differential skid plate. Rear lift is achieved by rear spring over axle conversion.
Superlift 6" lift kit:
This kit comes with bracketry that lowers the factory upper & lower control arms 6". Both front & rear legs of each upper control arm are captured by a single bracket then additionally strengthened with cross members. Rigidity is further increased by a unique belly-pan that connects the two lower control arm cross members. A new "dropped" centerlink and Centerlink Stabilizing System to support the centerlink, prevent premature pitman and idler arm wear. Front CV axle angles are addressed by lowering the differential 5 1/2". Rear lift is achieved by relocating the leaf springs from bottom to top of axle.
Body Lifts
are the cheapest way to lift your S-10; by lifting your S-10 you gain extra room for bigger tires. Pros of body lifts include stock ride characteristics and a taller stance. Some people don't like body lifts because the frame is exposed, this can be corrected by installing Nurf Bars and Gap Guards. 2" body lifts are available for 84-04 S-10's and 3" body lifts are available 84-94 S10's and one company makes 3" body lifts for S-10's up to 97 and this kit can be modified to work on late model S-10's as well.
2" Performance Accessories Body Lift
2" BDS Body Lift
For more lift, you can do a solid axle swap. Most people opt to fabricate their own SAS. There is one place that provides somewhat of a SAS Kit and this would be Fabritech Motorsports
Fabritech SAS (Solid Axle Swap)
For 9 or 11 inchs of lift. It provides a Dynatrac Dana 44 that is setup externally like a Dana 30 Cherokee front end. For the rear, the kit includes nothing, as they recommend a spring over relocation and lift blocks. The front coils, steering, and brake lines come with the kit. You will have supply the front shocks, housing, and all the rear suspension components. The kit includes the following: Driver's and Passenger's Coil towers w/ bump stop assys., Adj. trac bar and adjuster, Coil tower support bar, Upper and Lower 4 link bars, Rear 4-link mounting brackets, Rear trans. x-member, Upper 4-link mounts, Coil retaining hooks, Front coils and brake lines, Pitman arm, Tie rod assy., Drag link assy., Bushings and Hardware. FYI-They DO NOT sell to individuals, only to 4wd/speed shops. For more info, see: www.setstr8.com
What tires will fit?
No lift or Torsion Bar tweak & 2" Rear Shackles
Torsion bar tweaking can gain you 1-1.5 inches. If you get more it means your torsion bars were sagging or low from the factory (typical with the Sport package).
205's (standard tire size)
235's (optional tire size)
30's should clear all but the ones with sagging torsion bars
31's should fit with minor trimming/reshaping, anything larger needs lift.
Tire Sizes with 2-3" of lift
31's should fit, if using stock wheels expect the tires to rub on the frame and sway bar at full lock
32's should fit with minor trimming
33's should fit with massive trimming
Tire sizes with 5-6" of lift
32's should easily clear, if using stock wheels expect the tires to rub on the frame and sway bar at full lock
33's should fit with minor trimming
35's may fit with massive trimming
Tire sizes with 7-8" of lift (With 2" Body Lift)
33's should fit easy
35's should require minor trimming with 8 inch wheels, more if 10 inch wheels are used
36's would require massive trimming to be done.
9" lift (SAS)
37" tires should fit easy
38.5" tires may fit with a body lift or trimming.
I grabbed this from another site *cough*s10forum*cough*88-S-Dime did a great job with this list.... lol.. Its great list of info about each lift Kit.
Lift kits available for your IFS 4x4 S-series
Superlift 2" lift kit:
This kit comes with new torsion bar adjuster keys that attach to the rear end of the torsion bars. These load the torsion bars and determine vehicle ride height. Replacement tubular, upper control arms make realignment possible. For rear lift, the options are add-a-leafs and/or shackles. This lift is known to cause premature wear of CV boots, ball joints, idler arms and pitman arms due to the more severe angles created by the upper a-arms and t-bar crank. Although 2" to 3" can be achieved using this lift, that is the maximum and will increase wear.
Rough Country 2" lift kit:
This kit is very similar to the Superlift 2" lift. It also comes with new torsion bar adjuster keys to lift the front and new upper control arms. For rear lift it provides shackles. Also included are front shock relocation brackets and polyurethane bushings.
Trailmaster 5" lift kit:
This kit comes with differential drop bracketry which helps maintain factory C.V. joint angles. It includes new steering center link tie-rod extensions and shocks. However, because it utilizes stock upper a-arms, you need to cut them for shock clearance. Rear lift is achieved by relocating the leaf springs from bottom to top of axle. This lift is also not without problems, in some trucks there doesn't seem to be enough camber adjustment, which causes the insides of both front tires to wear VERY badly due to the tops of the tires are still laid in about 2.5 degree's. This is caused by the way in which drop brackets are mounted. If they are a fraction of an inch off it could cause this problem. The best correction is adding the upper control arms from the Superlift 2" or Rough Country 2" lift. Depending on the amount you go off-road, you will see premature wear of idler arms, pitman arms and halfshafts. If you use the kit with stock, cut upper control arms they may break.
BDS 5" Lift kit:
These kits also use differential drop bracketry. However, instead of tie-rod extensions, a dropped center steering link is supplied as well as new upper control arms for appropriate shock clearance. Also included are brake line relocation brackets and one-piece front & rear cross members that increase frame rigidity and are locked together with a differential skid plate. Rear lift is achieved by rear spring over axle conversion.
Superlift 6" lift kit:
This kit comes with bracketry that lowers the factory upper & lower control arms 6". Both front & rear legs of each upper control arm are captured by a single bracket then additionally strengthened with cross members. Rigidity is further increased by a unique belly-pan that connects the two lower control arm cross members. A new "dropped" centerlink and Centerlink Stabilizing System to support the centerlink, prevent premature pitman and idler arm wear. Front CV axle angles are addressed by lowering the differential 5 1/2". Rear lift is achieved by relocating the leaf springs from bottom to top of axle.
Body Lifts
are the cheapest way to lift your S-10; by lifting your S-10 you gain extra room for bigger tires. Pros of body lifts include stock ride characteristics and a taller stance. Some people don't like body lifts because the frame is exposed, this can be corrected by installing Nurf Bars and Gap Guards. 2" body lifts are available for 84-04 S-10's and 3" body lifts are available 84-94 S10's and one company makes 3" body lifts for S-10's up to 97 and this kit can be modified to work on late model S-10's as well.
2" Performance Accessories Body Lift
2" BDS Body Lift
For more lift, you can do a solid axle swap. Most people opt to fabricate their own SAS. There is one place that provides somewhat of a SAS Kit and this would be Fabritech Motorsports
Fabritech SAS (Solid Axle Swap)
For 9 or 11 inchs of lift. It provides a Dynatrac Dana 44 that is setup externally like a Dana 30 Cherokee front end. For the rear, the kit includes nothing, as they recommend a spring over relocation and lift blocks. The front coils, steering, and brake lines come with the kit. You will have supply the front shocks, housing, and all the rear suspension components. The kit includes the following: Driver's and Passenger's Coil towers w/ bump stop assys., Adj. trac bar and adjuster, Coil tower support bar, Upper and Lower 4 link bars, Rear 4-link mounting brackets, Rear trans. x-member, Upper 4-link mounts, Coil retaining hooks, Front coils and brake lines, Pitman arm, Tie rod assy., Drag link assy., Bushings and Hardware. FYI-They DO NOT sell to individuals, only to 4wd/speed shops. For more info, see: www.setstr8.com
What tires will fit?
No lift or Torsion Bar tweak & 2" Rear Shackles
Torsion bar tweaking can gain you 1-1.5 inches. If you get more it means your torsion bars were sagging or low from the factory (typical with the Sport package).
205's (standard tire size)
235's (optional tire size)
30's should clear all but the ones with sagging torsion bars
31's should fit with minor trimming/reshaping, anything larger needs lift.
Tire Sizes with 2-3" of lift
31's should fit, if using stock wheels expect the tires to rub on the frame and sway bar at full lock
32's should fit with minor trimming
33's should fit with massive trimming
Tire sizes with 5-6" of lift
32's should easily clear, if using stock wheels expect the tires to rub on the frame and sway bar at full lock
33's should fit with minor trimming
35's may fit with massive trimming
Tire sizes with 7-8" of lift (With 2" Body Lift)
33's should fit easy
35's should require minor trimming with 8 inch wheels, more if 10 inch wheels are used
36's would require massive trimming to be done.
9" lift (SAS)
37" tires should fit easy
38.5" tires may fit with a body lift or trimming.
jrobb913
New member
i have a 99 gmc jimmy and im running 31's currently, they rub when i crank them left or right, they just barly touch the frame but still rub, theres a bit of a lip on the front fenders, like 1" lip of metal that always gets dragged down when the front tires are stuffed into the wheel wells, the rear dont rub at all, but this is with 31" tires not 33's
That's a big tire for this truck without the right lift. Will get frame rub with 4x4 rims. Now there might be none or less frame rub if you used 2wd rims because they have less backspacing and will stick out further. But you will have to trim the fender for tire not to rub on turns.
1BADAZZJIMMY
New member
hello
i just was able to fit 35" M/Ts on my jimmy with a 5" suspension lift and a 4" body lift. i have 9-10" of total lift and barely fit 35s you will probably need about 7" of lift to fit 33"s. porkchops and shackles are the way to go to fit 30s but not any bigger. jimmy stock tires are 28" porkchops( torsion bar lifts) and shackles will not do it. i started with them, i got 5" lift in the rear and 3" in the front with the torsions cranked to the max. another problem with adjusting the torsion bars is maxed all the way you get a serious camber issue due to the fact that jimmys have a non adjustable control arms, when you lift the vehicle the lower control arms are fine but the upper control arms are so short that when you lift the truck the tires go from strait to this: stock> []--[], lifted> //--\\ , or lowered> \\--//
to help understand what all the weird symbols are here is a little hint
[]---[]<this is your truck as you look at it from the front,[]<this is a tire
//---\\<this is lifted with // and \\ being the tires
\\---//< lowered...
any questions just ask me
i just was able to fit 35" M/Ts on my jimmy with a 5" suspension lift and a 4" body lift. i have 9-10" of total lift and barely fit 35s you will probably need about 7" of lift to fit 33"s. porkchops and shackles are the way to go to fit 30s but not any bigger. jimmy stock tires are 28" porkchops( torsion bar lifts) and shackles will not do it. i started with them, i got 5" lift in the rear and 3" in the front with the torsions cranked to the max. another problem with adjusting the torsion bars is maxed all the way you get a serious camber issue due to the fact that jimmys have a non adjustable control arms, when you lift the vehicle the lower control arms are fine but the upper control arms are so short that when you lift the truck the tires go from strait to this: stock> []--[], lifted> //--\\ , or lowered> \\--//
to help understand what all the weird symbols are here is a little hint
[]---[]<this is your truck as you look at it from the front,[]<this is a tire
//---\\<this is lifted with // and \\ being the tires
\\---//< lowered...
any questions just ask me