Hi all!
I have a 96 sub 1500, and just replaced the brakes yesterday on all corners. Before I did, the sub started pulling to the left while braking, and squeaking, and...it was a nightmare. So, as I said, I replaced the pads and shoes and thought I was good to go. One thing I noticed was the rear driver drum had about an inch from the outsides that was dug out, leaving a hump in the middle. Replaced. Both front rotors and the other drum were flawless. But Im guessing that one drum was my pulling issue.
Also, the front pads were only about 1/8" worn compared to the new ones, while both sets of shoes were completely shot. Im assuming the previous owner only replaced one set here, and the other set there.
Anyway, to replace the front pads, I pulled the old ones out, clamped the caliper piston down, inserted the new pads, bolted it back on after tapping the guide pins enough for fitment. That's all I did up front.
The rear, of course, was a complete tear down, cleaning, and replacement. I took a picture of each side for a reference (after verifying a match online), and put it all back together. As I finished the last wheel, I got it mounted on the truck and pre-tightened the lug nuts and it started raining. SO, I set the truck down and left it until it stopped today. Then I finished tightening, double checked the other 3 and finally went for a drive. And no, this isnt my first brake job, Ive done several over the years.
However... this is the first one thats given me a puzzling issue. Normally, if I replace the brakes using a piston clamp, I dont bleed them unless they feel really weak. I hardly ever open the bleed valves. When I finally got a chance to go test them out, I pumped the brakes a few times to reset everything, and the brake light came on for a few seconds, and then went off. I put it in drive, backed out, stopped, pulled up, stopped again. They stopped the truck, but the light would randomly come on at times. So, I took it for a highway test, and thats where I noticed that the brake pedal does almost nothing for the first half of the push, and then catches closer to being fully depressed. I also noticed that as I actually start stopping, the brake/parking light comes on. Sometimes instantly, sometimes about half way into the stop. Sometimes it stays on for a few seconds, sometimes minutes. No consistency, very random.
Should I try bleeding these to see if it helps? Is there possibly an assembly issue? I matched everything perfectly to what it was before, even double checked it by taking an "after" pic of each side and comparing it to the one online again. Still, the rear brakes may not be engaging. Not sure, but I know that its too dangerous to drive on and need advice quickly.
Thanks in advance, and I apologize for the full on details and lengthy description.
I have a 96 sub 1500, and just replaced the brakes yesterday on all corners. Before I did, the sub started pulling to the left while braking, and squeaking, and...it was a nightmare. So, as I said, I replaced the pads and shoes and thought I was good to go. One thing I noticed was the rear driver drum had about an inch from the outsides that was dug out, leaving a hump in the middle. Replaced. Both front rotors and the other drum were flawless. But Im guessing that one drum was my pulling issue.
Also, the front pads were only about 1/8" worn compared to the new ones, while both sets of shoes were completely shot. Im assuming the previous owner only replaced one set here, and the other set there.
Anyway, to replace the front pads, I pulled the old ones out, clamped the caliper piston down, inserted the new pads, bolted it back on after tapping the guide pins enough for fitment. That's all I did up front.
The rear, of course, was a complete tear down, cleaning, and replacement. I took a picture of each side for a reference (after verifying a match online), and put it all back together. As I finished the last wheel, I got it mounted on the truck and pre-tightened the lug nuts and it started raining. SO, I set the truck down and left it until it stopped today. Then I finished tightening, double checked the other 3 and finally went for a drive. And no, this isnt my first brake job, Ive done several over the years.
However... this is the first one thats given me a puzzling issue. Normally, if I replace the brakes using a piston clamp, I dont bleed them unless they feel really weak. I hardly ever open the bleed valves. When I finally got a chance to go test them out, I pumped the brakes a few times to reset everything, and the brake light came on for a few seconds, and then went off. I put it in drive, backed out, stopped, pulled up, stopped again. They stopped the truck, but the light would randomly come on at times. So, I took it for a highway test, and thats where I noticed that the brake pedal does almost nothing for the first half of the push, and then catches closer to being fully depressed. I also noticed that as I actually start stopping, the brake/parking light comes on. Sometimes instantly, sometimes about half way into the stop. Sometimes it stays on for a few seconds, sometimes minutes. No consistency, very random.
Should I try bleeding these to see if it helps? Is there possibly an assembly issue? I matched everything perfectly to what it was before, even double checked it by taking an "after" pic of each side and comparing it to the one online again. Still, the rear brakes may not be engaging. Not sure, but I know that its too dangerous to drive on and need advice quickly.
Thanks in advance, and I apologize for the full on details and lengthy description.