new Model 2000 GMC Sierra will not run

dbate

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Hi Everyone,
I have a 2000 GMC Sierra truck. It is called the 'new model' because it was made near the end of 2000 and it has the same design as the 2001. It is a Sierra 1500, 5.3, 4wd, z71 extended cab. It has less than 120,000 miles on it, all highway miles. This truck has never been taken off road and it has never worked - it is my wife's occasional vehicle and we have owned it since new. The problem is that for the past year we've barely been able to get it to run and when it did run we are too afraid to take it far from home because it probably would need to get towed back home. Now it does not run at all. We've been to 2 different reputable garages and to a GM dealer. I used to be a mechanic myself. When I try to start the truck it seems to immediatly start and stop and no amount of trying will get it to start and run anymore. When I spray starting fluid in the motor it immediatly starts and runs for about 2 seconds - so it seems to be a fuel problem, but then again it could be the computer sensing a problem and just shutting down the pump. There is spark at the plugs. When you turn the key on you do hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds. I've put a test light in the fuse box port and it does light up for the same two seconds. Fuel pressure is 50psi when cranking. I've changed the fuel pump twice with Napa pumps and it is still 50psi (not 49 psi) at the Shrader valve. Is 50 psi when cranking good or not ? I've also changed the fuel filter, changed the crankshaft sensor, changed the fuel pressure regulator, changed the fuel relay, pulled and checked all the fuses, checked the vacum lines, checked and cleaned every electrical connector I can find including underneath the truck, made sure that the battery is good, made sure that the starter is good. I also cleaned the 3 grounds between the body and frame. Almost a year ago I had the garage change the tumbler in the ignition switch even though there is no chip in the key. There is no vapors released when I open the gas cap. I've made sure that everything at the gas tank is good with connections and lines. I changed the gas in the tank twice. So at this point I am so frustrated that I almost feel like sending this beautiful looking low milage truck to the scrapyard - considering that this nonsense has gone on for about a year! I've pretty much run out of ideas. I've not cleaned the injectors and I don't know how to do this at home, and because it does not run I really don't want to have to tow it to a garage to clean the injectors, unless I'm told that it is really necessay - in that case I will. I've not changed the camshaft sensor and I've not changed the airflow sensor and I don't really want to simply keep changing stuff for the sake of change. There is one thing that I am suspicious of: When I first took out the gastank I made sure that it was very clean on the inside. When I took the tank out again to install the second fuel pump I noticed that there were some little bits of rust inside the plastic tank. So I'm wondering where that came from - maybe from the fuel lines or the rail ? I did not change them and the dealer told me that that they never need to change these. The garage said that there are no error codes from the computer and that the computer is good. But at this point I am pretty much fed up and out of ideas. Does anyone have any thoughts on this ? I've been also doing a lot of online research and it seems that a lot of peope are frustrated with these trucks with starting problems.
 
possibly the fuel pressure regulator

On your fuel rail, driver side, you'll see a small cylinder looking part(1"diameter, 1"depth) and has 1 vacuum hose attatched to the top. If you can get the motor warm, shut truck off, and pull the vacuum off. If fuel leaks, the fuel pressure regulator is in bad shape.

3 options.

The 'fpr' acts like a fuel filter, and as a 'float bowl' (as in a lawn mower)

It does have a filter in it

It also has an allen wrench hole to adjust

Being that you stated you were a mechanic...I think you can adjust your problem from here... or try option 2 or 3

2-- buy a new fuel pressure regulator (average $50). Before you work, take gas cap off, take fuel pump relay off, start truck to weaken pressure. Once truck won't start/run, disco neg batt, take out old 'fpr', replace with new. *** watch out for o-rings that may not have come out with old fpr!!! Make sure 'fpr' matches. Put new fpr on, should slip on reeeeaaaally easy. Clamp should be easy also.

From here...you should know/see what u need 2do.

Option 3- take to mechanic...ask for fpr replacement. $150 ave bill
 
Actually I already replaced the fuel pressure regulator, but thank you for the suggestion. I am still suspicious about the fuel pressure. I installed another fuel filter on the weekend and now the fuel pressure when cranking is 52psi. In the Haynes manual it says that the cranking psi should be 55 to 60 psi. So that sounds to me like the fuel pressure is too low to start the truck which sounds like my new fuel pump is faulty. But then I've seen other people say that the truck should be able to start with 50psi, so I am confused. Does anyone know if the truck needs 55 psi to start, or is 52 psi ok?
 
Well i ran into this problem once a couple years ago with a friends truck and after 2 days of testing everything we could think of we found it to be the TPS ( throttle position sensor ). It was sensing wide open throttle and shutting the injectors off!!! We found it by accident by forgetting to plug it back in after checking other sensors. unplugged it would start! plugged in it would not!! Just a thought and worth checking!!!
 
I have tried responding for a couple days so if you get three thats why .. anyway try unplgging your TPS ( Throttle position sensor ). I have helped with the same problem on a friends truck. After checking everything for a couple days we accidently left the TPS unplgged and we got injector pulse back!! and truck started. Found out the TPS was Showing Wide open throttle and shutting off the injectors!!

Maybe give it a try!
 
Now that's something new! Checking the TPS is one of the few things that I have not done. Thank you very much. I willl give it a try for sure and I will let you know!
 
2000 Sierra boggs down when cold

I have a sierra that doesnt like to rev up past about 2700 rpms when cold. its spits and sputters when you give it gas and when you try to drive it it just boggs horribly bad, but if i let it run for a min or two it runs great. Ive changed the fuel pump, fuek filter, tp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, 2
O2 sensors, plugs and wires, and it still does it. if someone could help me out it would be AWESOME. im thinking it might be injectors but im not sure. runs great when its warm.
 
I would 1st put my code scanner on it and verify that there are no codes present. With the cost of a scanner I find it hard to believe everyone doesn't own one. If there are truly no codes then you have the classic problem of either no spark or no fuel. Changing parts without verifying bad components is a waste of money. Start looking up diagnostic problems either on the web or with a service manual. If you get 50psi at the fuel rail then the pump is working. When you put a FI tester on does it get a signal? When you pull a spark plug is it wet or dry? When you insert a spark tester do you get spark through a spark plug wire. We assume you have a new fuel filter or not. Do you have compression , just check one cylinder. Go back to basics . You'll find the problem.
 
there are no codes present, and the fuel rail is supposed to be 55-62 psi and yes it is in that range. when i changed my last plugs they were a little wet. i dont think fuel is the problem, but ill check the spark and compression when i get a chance
 


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