remove stock stereo out of 2005 gmc canyon crew cab 4x4?

[Gregg]

i would like to know the steps to remove the stock stereo and so i can put in a after market stereo

 

[Molson02536]

i would like to know the steps to remove the stock stereo and so i can put in a after market stereo

Parts List: (can be purchased at any car install store)

Standard GM Receiver Wiring Harness for models 99+

Standard GM Antenna Adapter

Buick/Oldsmobile Mounting kit 1995-up, chassis size S & E (DIN and a half)



An alternative to using the wiring harness listed above, and being able to skip the fuse tapping part is to buy the Metra VT-GMRC-01 This unit also has a speaker that you can mount behind the dash to retain the chime.

I'm sure any audio store would just have it as GM din and a half mounting kit. But this is what crutchfield has it as. Crutchfield has a plate that goes over the lower opening, however the kit best buy has a small storage compartment. You can get it at best buy.

Step 1:
This does not have to be the first step, however I would recommend doing this first as it can save you some time later on when your getting antsy to get the thing in. Take the Wiring harness you bought and connect all the wires to their respective wired on the HU. The one above is color coded exactly to the same wire colors as the head unit, I would assume that it is the same with most HUs. The bag in which the harness came should have all the wire labels. I would recommend soldering the wires together and wrapping them and use heat shrink tube, as this provides for a better connection both physically and electronically. Alternatively you can use wiring pinch caps. I would advise against using twist caps.

Step 2: VERY IMPORTANT
Disconnect negative battery terminal. This is very important, you risk damaging your equipment if you do not do this.

Step 3: Removing the factory unit
Remove the center console dash cover. Grab it from the bottom and the top and just yank it kind of out and up. It should come right off, there are no screws, just tabs.

With a 7mm socket remove the three screws holding in the factory unit. Keep these screws. Slide the head unit out, and detach the factory wiring harness and antenna adapter from the back of the unit.

Step 4a. 12V Accessory turn on lead
NOTE: If you used the GMRC01 you can skip this step as as the adapter contains the ciricutry to emulate the 12v accessory turn on lead.

This is probably the most time consuming part of the install. Others have tapped the ignition wires, however I would NOT recommend doing that as you could risk voiding your Ignition electrical system warranty. The wiring harness above does not integrate the circuitry from the 12V accessory turn on that the factory unit uses, so what we need to do here is run a wire from the 12V accessory wire on your HU to a fuse in the engine bay.

There is a rubber grommet that most of the engine wires to the cab go through. This may be hard to see from the inside. From the engine bay it is on the drivers side, about a foot down behind the brake master cylinder (maybe ABS?, The thing with all the skinny metal tubes). I poked a small hole in the side and fed a wire through about 7-8 inches. Then reached in above the e-brake and pulled it through although it might be easier to tie the wire to a hangar and poke that through then pull from the other side. However you do it, that is were you run the wires through, ill try and get some pictures posted up soon. I also decided to run an AMP power wire while I was in there. If you plan to install an amp at any point I would recommend you do it now, because you don't want to do this twice, trust me its a pain in the butt.

Run the wire under the carpet and up the back of the center console, you should be able to reach in the center to grab it and pull it up. This will be wired to the 12V accessory wire on you head unit.

Step 4b: Finding a Fuse to tap for the accessory turn on
This step is rather simple however may require some trial and error. I used a flat slide style wire connector to slide over the positive (passenger side) terminal of the power window fuse. I have heard of people using other fuses as well. Tapping anything that is accessory switched will allow you to keep the RAP (retained accessory power) that will keep the radio on until the door is opened. Look in your manual and just read the lists of fuses. If you have done this and would recommend a specific fuse please let me know and I will put it in this HOWTO. I will post up some pictures when I get a chance.

Step 5:
Remove the mounting kit from its bag, there should be some directions in there as to which tabs to break off. In this case its almost all of them. There should be three remaining tabs that match up with the holes you removed the factory unit from. Mount your HU in the mounting kit as per the instructions that came with your HU. This should be relatively straightforward.

For the HU ground I used the tab on the bar that is behind the HU. I tested it with a volt meter and it is a good chassis ground.

Attach the wiring harness to the factory connector. Attach the accessory wire on your HU to the wire you ran up from the fuse. And attach the antenna adapter to the factory wire and plug it into the back of your HU. Slide everything in, and screw it in. Don't forget to attach RCA cables and such if you are running an amp.

Now would be a good time to re-attach the negative battery terminal and test it all out. If everything works, go ahead and put your center console cover back on and enjoy

Please if there is anything I left out, feel free to comment.