Towing Question 2011 1500

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hdallan

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So we bought a shiny new Sierra 1500 w/ the HD towing package and the 4.8lt V8. Obviously the salesman at the dealer really had no clue about towing capacities. I wanted one that would pull at least 6k. We were assured this one would do more than that. Well, as life would have at you, we had a chance to buy a travel trailer off family who didn't like the life. It's 24' at 5280lb. While getting the wiring tweaked at an RV dealer along with the equalizer hitch, the service manager informs me my towing rate is 5500Lb. Oops! Got to my family's place, hooked up and brought it home anyway, (only an hour down the road) and all seemed OK. Kept the dash display on trans temp and it never rose above 70c. Checked with GM and sure enough, 5500lb.:mad: So I've been asking around about upping my towing capacity and there are more suggestions than there are politicians. I was considering changing out the differential gears, adding an auxiliary cooler and beefing up the rear springs. I've had some people just laugh at me, others saying I'll be just fine if I go slow (!?):confused: Some talk about superchips and bully-dogs, others tell me to strip out the trailer to lighten it up, and on and on it goes. I even e-mailed GM and got a real non-answer about "self modifications". So, please, advise! Can I do mods to "increase my towing capabilities" (I know I can't change the rating on the vehicle certificate) And if so, what are the best? Or do I have to give my wife some Bambi eyes and ask her if shed like to have a nice date at the GM dealer and look at some 2500's? Any thoughts welcome, good or bad.
 
That really blows but IMO all is not lost. The thing that you really need to worry about is the engine temps and tranny temps. You could beef up the suspension but with a weight distro hitch that should negate the need for beefing up the suspension. You could have the rear end change to towing gears, however that may require that the computer be changed or remapped, only GM will know the answer to that.

If it were me I would do the following if I were in your situation:

1) Buy a good supplemental transmission cooler. Hayden makes a good one. Make sure when you get the Hayden cooler you get the biggest one available for your truck. There are a few locations/ways to mount these coolers but with out a doubt, mount it front of the Rad.

2) Always change the oil just prior to a major trip and use a good quality synthetic such as M1.

3) Consider installing a supplemental Oil Cooler, yep, Hayden makes these to.

4) both of these coolers are easy to install in your driveway or garage in an afternoon.

5) Install an engine temp gauge if truck does not have one, but I suspect your truck does. Sun or Faze makes good gauges. Check out the 10 dollar Faze gauges on ebay. I use them and they work good.

Now when your towing a couple of things you have to remember

-Never ever tow with the Cruise Control engaged. Reason is that when in Cruise the Torque convertor will engage excessively which will generate heat. Heat kills a Tranny

-Do not tow with the tranny in overdrive

-Make sure your fresh water tank is no more than half full. And Gray and Black tanks are completely empty.

If you are only going for a weekend, consider leaving one of the propane tanks behind

Hope this helps

Greg
 
You have more to worry about then temps, you need to be able to control the trailer and stop it. Sorry to say the truck you bought is not the best choice for towing a trailer that size. You will be on edge all the time you are driving it and for sure you don't want other family members with less experience with a trailer driving it.

You can do all the upgrades suggested but you still have a 4.8L engine. GM is not going to give advice on self modifications, they would be accepting liability. The only safe and legal towing limits for the vehicle are those stated by the oem manufacturer.

IMO you need at least as 1500 with 6.2L engine and Max Trailering option which includes (among other things) a HD 9.5 inch rear axle with 4-wheel disc brakes, 3.73 axle ratio with G80 Locking rear differential and HD suspension to help control the trailer. Otherwise, a 2500 with 6.0L.

You current truck is fine for towing around a boat or other smaller trailer. I am sure others will say you can tow this much and do this but they don't have to live with it. You will be butchering up a new truck which will reduce it value. You might also want to check with your insurance agent and tell him what you plan on towing and that the truck is not designed for that load. See if he will confirm your insurance will be in force or if they will cancel you if they know. Insurance companies are using look for loopholes with claims and if the insured is doing or driving something modified it could be a negative. In other words, you are a bigger risk. All things to consider.
 
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it seems like you are within a couple hundred of trailer weight. you should still be able to put more weight in truck for hauling stuff...keep and eye on the temps and always buy the best brake pads and shoes....trailer brakes would be a must. I would be extra careful in mountains. i had a base model f-150 4.6 liter and it was rated for about10,000 lbs. trailer. it was all in the rear axle . explore the rear axle option.
 
Well that is IMO overkill. I have a 28 foot Shadow Cruiser 260BHS that weighed in at around the 5500lbs mark loaded. I have towed it about 10,000 miles to places like Michigan, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Virginia and more. Not once did I have a problem towing it, straight as an arrow down the road, and the temps always stayed at or around the normal operating temps.
My truck for towing at the time was a 2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner, 4.0L automatic tranny with 118,000+ on the clock. Nope the engine did not blow up, and the tranny did not fall out. I did however trade my Taco in for a 2011 GMC Sierra 5.3L Z71 Extended cab. The main reason I did this is that when I take my camper to place like West Virginia I wanted to take my four wheelers. Now being honest I have only towed my camper with my GMC Sierra only a few hundred miles, from MD to Virginia in the Blue Ridge Mtns. I happy with my current setup and it works very well.

Like I said, there are a couple of things you can do to keep the wieght down, no fluids on board (H2O), Pack only what you need. And utilize the payload section of your truck.
 
Frist of all you are passing the buck on the towing rating to the dealer. when in fact it's your fault that you did not do your home work and check.

Most people know when a car sales man is talking he is lieing!

Second if you tow a trailer that is over your tow rating and have a accident your in trouble. Insurance will not pay and YOU will be liable for all propery and personal damges. not worth it
 
Experiece with 19 ft 5th wheel

I had a 2002 GMC:o Z71 1500 extended cab with a 5.3L engine. Believe it or not, the fact that is is extended cab and 4WD or not impacts towing capacity. I towed a 19 ft 5th wheel (4500 lbs) for 3 years. The towing package on the GMC 1500 is GREAT when using a brake controller for stopping the trailer. The truck could stop it as it is, but on the highway the controller helps. Truck had plenty of power to get it rolling, but I wanted to move to a bigger trailer, so I got a 3500. About a year after I quit towing with it, I lost the tranny. Maybe a tranny cooler would have helped, but I found out i had the 4L60E. The more robust 4L80E would have probably been better for towing. The 60 is too light for heavy towing, which being at the top of your limit you are doing. And, the truck was not too small for that size trailer. I never had any problem being jerked around.
 
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