what the f***!

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barks507

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Jimmy won't start!! Rapid clicking sound coming from engine somewhere. Couldn't even get keys out. Wouldn't accept a boost from large mini van? Assuming a really dead battery?? Battery is fairly old (5yrs I think). Could it be anything else?
 
barks507 said:
Jimmy won't start!! Rapid clicking sound coming from engine somewhere. Couldn't even get keys out. Wouldn't accept a boost from large mini van? Assuming a really dead battery?? Battery is fairly old (5yrs I think). Could it be anything else?
Click to expand...

Give the jimmy 15 min of boost before trying to start it, and yes there needs to be at least 10.5 volts in the system to let the ignition keys to come out. :mad:

A badly drained battery can be a big drain to the the boosting car or van, so it needs time to be charged before the electrical system on the jimmy will get 10.5 volts.

At worst, your starter has gone bad also with the battery. :(

Keep me posted eh. :D
 
Well..the blue beast is back up and running. Notice much more responsive throttle after mods! Somehow I drained the battery when doing mods???

Also fixed a leaking fuel (so I thought) on the weekend. I still smell gas? I am wondering if I spliced into another line?? It certainly smelled like gas when line was cut into. Line was located directly under rear passenger door and rotted right on a clip.
 
barks507 said:
Well..the blue beast is back up and running. Notice much more responsive throttle after mods! Somehow I drained the battery when doing mods???

Also fixed a leaking fuel (so I thought) on the weekend. I still smell gas? I am wondering if I spliced into another line?? It certainly smelled like gas when line was cut into. Line was located directly under rear passenger door and rotted right on a clip.
Click to expand...

It's common for the lines to corrode there as mention before. I ended up replacing mine with the nylon fuel lines, all three of them when i went repalce the bad one. Note i think it's going to be your return fuel line that is leaking, since your engine is still running and at 62psi in the pressurized line. You would know it with all the fuel running out and engine not running. Believe going by memory the return is the third one from the out side line, could be wrong. "only human you know"

If your not running a cold air intake, you can open up the air fliter box you have. When you open up the air filter box and take the air filter out, look at the towards the front of the box. You'll see where the tub enters the box to get fresh air in to it, cut that front part out. Take the filter box out "held on by one bolt i believe" and cut out the front part where the tub is and you'll find more free HP and that will keep the heat from the engine out of the intake track of your air intake system. :D

Keep up the good work and keep me posted eh.
 
I bought a rubber flexible fuel line from NAPA with 4 clamps (injection hose). So, is there more than 1 fuel line running in that area.
I saw other lines there but assumed they were brake lines. I started cutting line that was severely corroded it snapped off in my hand so I thought I had the right one. Could there be another line leaking there?
Also my check engine light is now off?? Is that because the power was disconnected when battery died.
 
barks507 said:
I bought a rubber flexible fuel line from NAPA with 4 clamps (injection hose). So, is there more than 1 fuel line running in that area.
I saw other lines there but assumed they were brake lines. I started cutting line that was severely corroded it snapped off in my hand so I thought I had the right one. Could there be another line leaking there?
Also my check engine light is now off?? Is that because the power was disconnected when battery died.
Click to expand...

Check engine light would be the low battery thing, reset it but turning the ignition key's to the on position (engine not running) and pull the ECM fuse out of the fuse panel at the end of the dash and place it back in after 20 seconds. Turn the keys off for 10 seconds and turn it back on for 30 seconds and then start the engine. If the engine stalls, let it and don't touch anything. Just restart it and let idle for 3 min, then go for test drive. you may find the transmission to shift harder but that will tame it self down, the ECM is just relearning the drive train again like the day it came off the assembly line.

As for your question about the line, there are three lines i believe. There is the hi pressure side fuel line, low pressure fuel line (return) and the EVAP line. If you cut in to the EVAP line that could have set your Check Engine Light to come on. I believe Part Source will scan your ECM free of charge so you know what DTC codes you have and you can address the issue to why your Check Engine Light came on, but you would have erased the history if you did full the fuse to the ECM as i mentioned. Good luck and keep me posted and glad you got more HP from your 4.3. :D

P.S almost forgot, replace your fuel filter after about a week but no more then a month since you worked on your fuel line. Any dirt or rust from line may have gotten picked up by the fuel filter and last thing i would hate to hear is that your engine is not starting due to a simple dirty fuel filter. (Located under the drivers door on the inside of the frame rails.)
 
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