can i fit 22 inch rims on my 1995 gmc jimmy?

[Beast]

i wanna put some blades on my 1995 gmc jimmy 4 door 4x4.
the truck has no lift or drop of any kind.
but i was wondering if i could fit 22's or 24's.
and if i could fit them, could i lower the truck?

 

[gmc004x4]

yes you can lower it. stylin trucks has the lowering keys and the blocks. why would you want 22 or 24 on your truck. they will make it harder to stop your truck. it will take a longer area to stop. get like a 20 and put some good slotted and drilled rotors and you will be fine.

 

[Molson02536]

i wanna put some blades on my 1995 gmc jimmy 4 door 4x4.
the truck has no lift or drop of any kind.
but i was wondering if i could fit 22's or 24's.
and if i could fit them, could i lower the truck?

OEM tires: 235/70-15 (709x235mm). Bolt pattern: 5x120.65 (5x4.75). Offset: 25 to 45 mm. Tires up to 749x275mm. Rims up to 23x10.0".

Here are your rim and tire option size: http://www.rimsntires.com/packages.jsp

As for lowering your Jimmy save your money and don't buy the lowering keys, you can lower it 3/4 for $40.00 plus the cost of new shocks buy just turning down the torsion bar key adjustment bolts. To drop the front like 5" without spending anything . Of course at that much of a drop, you have to remove the front axles and lose 4x4, but there are a couple guys testing the limits to see how far you can go.

We just dropped my Son's Blazer 4x4 a couple weeks ago, 3.5 front, and 4.5 rear by just tuning down the torsion key bolts to give it the hight we wanted. Looks awesome and sits about 1.5" lower than a stock and with Corvette rims makes it look even lower.

Using blocks in the back and turn down the torsion bars with new Bump stoppers with drop mono shocks helps with the ride. Were going to take the blocks out the back and put the 4 or 3.5 inch block instead and bring the front up again about 0.5 inch to give it a 3/4 drop, the Bump steer is getting to me and don't want my son killed on the high way or track when it's time to beat on the Blazer

HERES WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT FOR THE FRONT TO GET A 5-6 INCH DROP GOOD LUCK WITH IT !!!!

The Torsion Bar Trick has become pretty notorious among the lowered Jimmy and blazer community. Apparently I didn't write the instructions thorough enough for a lot of people. Here is the more detailed revision:

Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40 or my 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and brake fluid mixture, just don't get it on any paint you want to keep. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.

1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.

2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).

3. At the crossmember (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.

4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the crossmember. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.

5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole crossmember in place and tap the crossmember toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.

6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.

7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuater arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.

8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.

9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.

Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.

You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
I have done my best to explain this whole precedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the forum. GOOD LUCK!

Don't for get the get the Jimmy's wheel re aligned to make sure your still going down the road straight.

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/5786/bl1mg8.jpg
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/7710/dscf0372wv0.jpg
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5484/dscf0383ed6.jpg That's what basically a 4/4 Drop will net you on the 2 door.