Raw Fuel

[Railroadman]

Help!! I just went out to crank my 98 Sonoma 4 cylinder and it ran ruff for a minute and died. I tried cranking it but it sounds like it is flooded and the smell of raw gas. I had the sam problem several years back and had it towed to the shop. It is in the garage and i need it on monday. Is it a big job to change the preasure switch or do you think i might have another problem?

 

[Molson02536]

Help!! I just went out to crank my 98 Sonoma 4 cylinder and it ran ruff for a minute and died. I tried cranking it but it sounds like it is flooded and the smell of raw gas. I had the sam problem several years back and had it towed to the shop. It is in the garage and i need it on monday. Is it a big job to change the preasure switch or do you think i might have another problem?

Replace your fuel pressure regulator (FPR), it's along your fuel rail and takes 10 min if not less to replace. They go for around $70.00 at Auto zone and they will have the step by step instructions for you to replace the FPR. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...r&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=79981_0_0_

Locate your FPR first and pull the vacuum line from it, there should not be any fuel coming from the vacuum line. If there is, replace the FPR.

Here is a link that should help you find your FPR, #2 hte what your looking for.
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u...delid=7078&capuid=1&majorgroup=03&grouptype=B
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u...delid=7078&capuid=1&majorgroup=03&grouptype=B

 

[Railroadman]

Thanks, I've been out of town today but I am going to give it a try tommorrow, will post results!

 

[Railroadman]

I checked the vacum hose and there was gas came out of it. I remember a couple of years ago when i was having a problem with hard starts and the mechanic replaced that same valve thinking it was the problem but wasen't. He said that this engine you had to disconnect the exhaust manifold to get it on and off because it had a bolt underneath and was different than other models. It took longer to change this one compared to other ones. Does that sound right? Anyhow that be the case i might not want to tackle it. I can see the bolt underneath it is tight working space but don't want to get in over my head. What you think?
Thanks Railroadman

 

[Molson02536]

I checked the vacum hose and there was gas came out of it. I remember a couple of years ago when i was having a problem with hard starts and the mechanic replaced that same valve thinking it was the problem but wasen't. He said that this engine you had to disconnect the exhaust manifold to get it on and off because it had a bolt underneath and was different than other models. It took longer to change this one compared to other ones. Does that sound right? Anyhow that be the case i might not want to tackle it. I can see the bolt underneath it is tight working space but don't want to get in over my head. What you think?
Thanks Railroadman

You can log on again at the link given earlier to Auto Zone and register to become a member and you'll get the step by step instructions on how to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Yes it is tight to get the bottom bolts and if you think your going to be over your head.

Just visit the local GM dealer and ask anyone of the tech's there on how they replace it and how long it takes them to do it. Most time you can make a friend or two that can replace if for you for $50.00 on there day's off or after hours at there place or yours.

Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Relieve fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

2. Remove the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the pressure regulator vacuum hose.

4. Remove the pressure regulator attaching screw (1).

5. Remove the pressure regulator assembly (2) and the O-ring (3). Discard the O-ring.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Lubricate the new pressure regulator O-ring (3) with clean engine oil, then install the O-rings on the pressure regulator.

2. Install the pressure regulator assembly (2) onto the fuel rail (4).

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the pressure regulator attaching screw (1) coated with an appropriate thread-locking material.

Tighten

Tighten the pressure regulator attaching screw to 12 N.m (106 lb in).

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

4. Connect the negative battery cable.

5. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:

5.1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF for 2 seconds.5.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
5.3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.

5.4. Inspect for fuel leaks.

http://www.softwaredesignspr.com/members/s10-fuel3.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/iminhell/ln2.jpg circled is the FPR

Good luck and keep me posted, out on tour right now

 

[Railroadman]

Well i had a flashback of the last time I had The fuel preasure regulator replaced and remembered the guy dropped the bolt and had a heck of a time finding it. So i had it towed to the shop (thanks to my phone roadside assisatance), and the mechanic replaced the fuel preasure regulator. I went by to see if it was ready and they were looking for that bolt again. I guess i might have saved myself a lot of trouble looking for that bolt because i don't have a lift. Anyhow $120.00 and I am rolling again. Thanks for your advice.
Railroadman