I bought this 96 slt jimmy 4dr truck about 2 months ago to finish out the winter for my wife. Well as I found out the card had a rod knock from what 2 seperate techs told me. I was driving on the highway yesterday and the truck would not go over 55 and rpms not over 4. So anyways I got the truck towed to my house and got it started again and it proceeded to poor greyish white smoke. Now I have had twenty some cars like stated hondas acuras, so I assume this rod is not stuck broke or what not. WOuld it be cheaper to replace the whole motor or drop the pan and hopefully replace the rod and piston that is messed up? ALso what should be my typical price for either repair? Thanks
Normally a Honda guy
- Thread starter crynow82
- Start date
Molson02536
New member
Have the motor replaced with a rebuilt one with warranty, with the damage you have described. There are more issues then just the rod, so at this point your better off replacing the engine.
Average cost of an engine with the core swap is about $1,800.00-$2,200.00 and the labor is about $700.00. In short your looking at just under $3,000.00 from start to finish.
I my self would invest in $3,000.00 if you know the rest of the Jimmy is sound and also would have the transmission serviced buy replacing the Boost Valve, sleeve (0,490"), and swap the Servo with Corvette Servo's. The transmission service will cause you Just under $300.00, but it will take the new engine's HP and TQ.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Well supposidly the trans was replaced with a rebuild aamco one, but if thats true who knows, cause he told me the noise was a ac compressor when I first bought it from him. If I sold the truck as is what do you think I can get for it?
Molson02536
New member
$500.00 and sorry for the bad news, your better off putting in a new engine and you know your good for another 200,000 miles in the Jimmy. I have over 370,000 miles in my 1996 Jimmy and i am still running the original drive train.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Molson02536
New member
That's good for a rebuilt, just make sure it's a complete rebuilt and not a used engine out or a wreck unless it has been checked out with a dyno.
Good luck and keep us posted on your project.
Well update the guy that sold me the truck saw it on cl since i was selling it with a bad motor and offered to buy it off me for basically what I sold it for if he can get it, or to get the dealership that told him is was the ac compressor to pay for a new motor for me...so hopefully one of those goes thru!!!
ok an update so we finally got the motor in after working just one day a week only few hours(me and my buddy schedules are insane) anyway besides this being the worst swap i have done, we filled everything up and have one metal line that not sure where it goes and 3 connectors with nothing to plug into. So just to see if it will crank we attached the battery and say sparks coming from the engine bay area. So we checked the wiring and the alt wires were backwards. changed them and now when we connect the battery we get nothing. No lights on dash, no noises for relays or anything. So I called around to a dealership and junkyard and they told me to check the "inline fuse" that comes off the battery to the starter and or alt. Is there more than one? I only found one coming so far from the battery positive side to the alt? Could that be the problem I am getting no power at all (dashlights or anything)? Any good advise is welcome!!!
Here is a little update guys: Guy never bought the truck back, so bought a used motor with around 150k from a 97 Blazer for $640, had issues getting the old motor out and used one I purchased in. So after tons of scraps, cuts, head scratching, cursing and thoughts of blowing the truck up we got it installed by the end of July...Yes it tooks us countless hours of over 4 months with working on it one day a week. So had a power issue we resolved, but still no crank. Towed it to a local shop and they fixed the no crank issue (reversed wireing on starter and alt, fix a minor gas leak, and new battery. Started, but still would not move. Towed it to a Trans specialist in my area and found out we smashed the torque converter against the trans oil pump, so had to purchase a used trans with 130k for $325. Had the guy replace it and also the trans lines to total from him was $745. So what I am left with to fix is my ignition does not crank the motor, reason is I think is the ignition switch got fried when the starter wires were reversed because the starter relay was fried and crank fuse blown. So is that an easy fix? I have to take a wire from the purple wire on the starter relay tap it to my battery while key is in forward postiion to start the truck, smh...Also I had a some type of triangular plastic piece with 3 greasy vacuum tubes that I have no idea if it goes to the engine or trans. Anyone have ideas on that also?
Please any help is usefull???!!!!
Please any help is usefull???!!!!
Oh yea and we had to replace the transfer case seal, cause there was a bunch of trans oil in the trans case, and my transmission guy said did look like the trans was worked on but not by aamco because of the mismatch trans bolts to the engine and the old transfer case seal...so this guys was a total liar and thats why he sold the truck for $2200 for me with no paperwork on repairs except new tires.
FEandGoingBroke
New member
At least you got new tires...
LOL, something like that. Okay on to the unfinished items after the swap. I have a check engine light on so i scan it and got the following codes b1225, b1286, p0118, and p0753. I checked what they meant on the s10.com forum. b1225 says fuel temp sensor #1 circuit short to ground, b1286 says airintake left circuit short to battery, p0118 says engine coolant temp circuit high input, and p0753 shift solenoid a electical 1-2....so what are these codes telling me to do or replace?
Had my buddy run the codes with his scanner from his dealership. The b codes he said were all tied to this temp sensor that is by the thermostat that has been plugged off for some reason on that block. So I have to remove the old one from my old block to resolve the issue. I hope the acutual sensor is still there and not damage. Now as for the p ones, they are tied to temp senson and other is for my pressure switch in the trans for 1-2 gear. cleared all codes to see which ones come back. I know the temp one should come back, and i saw my light come back on this morn, so probably that one. Will do some work and report back.
Ok, got the Temp sensor next to the therm housing installed. Seemed to fix the first 3 engine codes. Only issues is my truck was misfiring so bad on the way to get it that I had to gas it, and now my truck smells of bad gas fumes. SO I have no idea how to get the smell to go away. Ran codes after we cleared them and installed the sensor, so now the only one is left is the trans solenoid 1-2 gear that is now acting up worse to where it almost just stays in first gear cause the malfunction. So now I have to contact the place that sold me the trans to see what the hell they can do for me. This is why i stick to foreign cars!!!
happy 2011
New member
FYI i repair ALOT of honda automatic trannys. There really not any better.
My problem with the whole automatic tranny is that we ben making them for a hundred years why can't we make a good one yet.
My problem with the whole automatic tranny is that we ben making them for a hundred years why can't we make a good one yet.
Replaced all my spark plugs again due to that sensor last week being not installed fouled them out. Now I have still my ignition issues which we think maybe tied to the Neutral switch on the trans and a relay ignition issue. Since about sunday, I notice that the P and R on the dash will not show the little amber marker that shows you are in those gears like n-1 do. Any ideas on why????
Got the ignition issue resolved. Getting my leaking gasline fixed today so will bring my total on this beast to $4450 with price of truck. Only thing left trans dash lights issue and to replace rear wiper motor and glass actuator.
Molson02536
New member
Forget the wiper motor replacement for now, If your luck the shaft on the wiper motor to the arm is seized like ever Jimmy and Blazer from lack of use and lubrication.
Start with cleaning up and lubrication the wiper motor shaft and check the fuse to your wiper motor. After all said and done and the motor did go bad, you can replace it and then have to replace it again in about a year or two depends on where you live.
Good luck and keep up the great work.
Molson02536