No remote lock / unlock

stevecon

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Hi,

I have an '04 Envoy that started to have issues with the keyless remote FOB. The distance from which it would function was getting less and less until finally, no more.

I changed batteries in both FOBs with no luck. I even attempted reprogramming the FOBs with the ignition switch / lock unlock button too. Same results. I began reading about the LGM / LGA depending on what you like to call it, and most discussions included problems with defrost / wiper / registration plate light / etc. issues along with the lock / unlock trouble I'm having.

The other functions of the LGM seem to be working w/o issue. I checked the wiring in the rubber boot between the body and hatch, and everything was fine. Is there something I'm missing? An antenna / antenna connection perhaps? if so - where is it?

At this point, since GM saw fit to provide only one lock on the vehicle, I can only unlock the driver door and must use the power door lock button to open the rest of the doors - not fun when it's raining and the wife must wait for me to get in before she can - at least for her anyway.

Thanks in advance!

Steve
 
Hi,

I have an '04 Envoy that started to have issues with the keyless remote FOB. The distance from which it would function was getting less and less until finally, no more.

I changed batteries in both FOBs with no luck. I even attempted reprogramming the FOBs with the ignition switch / lock unlock button too. Same results. I began reading about the LGM / LGA depending on what you like to call it, and most discussions included problems with defrost / wiper / registration plate light / etc. issues along with the lock / unlock trouble I'm having.

The other functions of the LGM seem to be working w/o issue. I checked the wiring in the rubber boot between the body and hatch, and everything was fine. Is there something I'm missing? An antenna / antenna connection perhaps? if so - where is it?

At this point, since GM saw fit to provide only one lock on the vehicle, I can only unlock the driver door and must use the power door lock button to open the rest of the doors - not fun when it's raining and the wife must wait for me to get in before she can - at least for her anyway.

Thanks in advance!

Steve

Start with the simple and try cleaning your fob key. Take the FOB key apart and cleaned the contacts on the board where the buttons (lock, unlock, panic) hit and hope it works perfectly again.

Dab a Q tip in alcohol and wipe down the circuit board of the key fob. Make sure you don't get any cotton stuck on the board and wait for it to dry then replace the battery and close it up.

Keep us posted

Molson02536
 
If BOTH remotes are not activating the locks, the problem is not with the remotes....unless their programming has been changed with the vehicle. Sometimes the key (button contact) will wear out over time, but generally not on both remotes at the same time. You can also verify if the remotes are transmitting by taking the remotes to a car parts shop and 'testing' them with the test device near the cash registers (seen one in nearly every parts store I've patronized). If they are transmitting, you can be be assured the problem isn't with them.

Ultimately, the door locks are controlled by the infamous Body Control Mdule (BCM)...the 'computer' that does everything the Engine Control module does not do... From the symptoms you are having, sounds like the BCM is failing and not properly activating the door locks. You did not indicate if the horn beeps when you activate the remote. However, the BCM takes inputs from the door lock switches and the door lock receiver then activates the door lock actuators in the doors. BCMs can be purchased but the BCM is best left to the dealer for programming.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Thanks for the replies. I have cleaned and inspected the FOBs even changed the battery with no luck. The horn no longer reports, nor do the vehicle lights flash when the remote is operated. I can lock/unlock the doors and tailgate/glass via power lock buttons on the doors. I have recently noticed that now and then - no predicability - I'll hear 5 chimes upon starting the engine. The check engine goes on and off much more often with a "gross evap system leak" code since replacing the gas cap - if it matters.

For repairs, this '04 XL has the dubious distinction of being *worst* vehicle I have ever owned. In 7 years (100k mi) I have rebuilt / replaced the auto transmission, exhaust manifold, cat converter, A/C evaporator coil (I didn't fix that one due to the $1200 estimate) & the front differential. I have 140k mi on it and was covered by extended warranty to 72k mi. The rear door handles are nearly impossible to operate - they must be lifted sharply to open the doors. Rear door speakers magically stopped working. The radio and numerous dash lights do not work; various gauges (fuel level, oil pressure and speedo) point wherever they want, thermostat failed partially open (really? a thermostat - I have never had one fail in 35 years of owning cars), and the latest of the keyless entry not working. I can't wait to be out of this vehicle.
 
Dude, I hear ya. Our '04 hasn't given us as much trouble, but we've had some; and at least we had the good fortune of an extended warranty. We've had battery issues, BCM issues (three times), problems with the electronic fan clutch, problems with the heater/air conditioner ducting system (the flapper doors that control where the air goes, like defroster, vent, floor, etc). The last two major ganks have been the mid gate power window regulator (replaced it for less than half of what the dealer wanted), and that was last year. Last week I had to order a window regulator for the BACK lift/tailgate (about $80 off Amazon) as it 'shipped the bed' (to coin a Kmart phrase). I've never really liked it but my wife loves it. Gas mileage sucks at about 17 mpg at 75 mph.
 
I fixed my problem with the remote keyless entry system by reseating the 3 connectors on the liftgate control module. Pop off the back inside liftgate cover and you can gain access to it.
 


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