1995 Sierra runs rough. Needs tune up help

sofasurfer

New member
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
37
Reaction score
0
Points
0
runs rough. Idles bad. Accelerating, I need to pump it to get up to speed. When I stop it wants to stall. I think its starved for gas.
I checked the rotor cap. Looks good, as does the cap. I took the distrib out because I broke off a distrib cap bolt (woops). Think I put the distrib in correctly but wonder if it is off a tooth.
It starts. I checked timing. When running best, and fairly smooth, the timing doesn't even register on the timing mark plate. When properly timed it runs like hell.
I did disconnect the plug thing under the dash (advance?).
Any help appreciated.
 
runs rough. Idles bad. Accelerating, I need to pump it to get up to speed. When I stop it wants to stall. I think its starved for gas.
I checked the rotor cap. Looks good, as does the cap. I took the distrib out because I broke off a distrib cap bolt (woops). Think I put the distrib in correctly but wonder if it is off a tooth.
It starts. I checked timing. When running best, and fairly smooth, the timing doesn't even register on the timing mark plate. When properly timed it runs like hell.
I did disconnect the plug thing under the dash (advance?).
Any help appreciated.

Start with the simple and replace the fuel filter, dirty fuel filter can give you the issues you described. Here is a link for you to retrieve your DTC codes if you have not retrieved any yet. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your Sierra running 100% again soon. :D

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
 
That information is too dang cool! Thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow.
I was not able to time it properly as it ran so rough when timed near correctly and the timing mark jumped around. So I timed it to sound as good as possible. At that point the timing mark is 54 degrees off. That is according the the knob at the back of the timing light. Do you understand me? I am not sure I do. It idles much better now but just once in a while wants to stall. After it sits a little while it still is very rough on take off but after a couple minutes it runs pretty smooth. It is a big improvement but still not right.
I can take this to my brother 30 miles away but I would prefer to figure it out myself...er, I mean by OURselves:-)
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks.
 
That information is too dang cool! Thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow.
I was not able to time it properly as it ran so rough when timed near correctly and the timing mark jumped around. So I timed it to sound as good as possible. At that point the timing mark is 54 degrees off. That is according the the knob at the back of the timing light. Do you understand me? I am not sure I do. It idles much better now but just once in a while wants to stall. After it sits a little while it still is very rough on take off but after a couple minutes it runs pretty smooth. It is a big improvement but still not right.
I can take this to my brother 30 miles away but I would prefer to figure it out myself...er, I mean by OURselves:-)
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks.

1995 Chevy 350, you need to unplug the brown wire under the black cover on the pass side firewall. Then make sure its timed on 0 measured at the front of the damper. If it does not run right take off the dist cap and with a socket and long breaker bar have someone watch the dist rotor as you turn the engine reverse rotation, what you are looking for is a slack in the timing chain.

If their is significant slop, then re-time engine 2-4 degrees advanced till it is running good again. When you are done reconnect the brown wire and put the plastic cover back on. Done. The distributor is computer controlled. The base setting must be correct, then computer will take over from there to advance and retard timing.:D
 
I did the DTC codes check. It appears to be giving me 3 differant codes. It flashes this sequence...42,42,42,44,44,44,12,12,12...and then it repeats the same sequence over and over.
According to the code chart there is no code "12".
What can you deduce from this information?
My vehicle is a 95 GMC Sierra 5.7L with VIN "K".
Thanks.
 
given

I did the DTC codes check. It appears to be giving me 3 differant codes. It flashes this sequence...42,42,42,44,44,44,12,12,12...and then it repeats the same sequence over and over.
According to the code chart there is no code "12".
What can you deduce from this information?
My vehicle is a 95 GMC Sierra 5.7L with VIN "K".
Thanks.

DTC code #42, check the connection to your ICM (ignition control module) at the distributor, inspect for any signs of damage like corrosion or the ICM my be on it's way out.

DTC code #44, Check your left O2 sensor wire harness, look for damages and at worst, replace your O2 sensor.

DTC code #12, means your OBD1 system is working fine and all codes given needs to be addressed.

Good luck and keep me posted.:rolleyes:
 
Do I need to clear the codes before rechecking them? I mean, do I need to clear them after any repairs? How do I clear them?
 
Do I need to clear the codes before rechecking them? I mean, do I need to clear them after any repairs? How do I clear them?

YOU can clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for 5 min with the head lights on to make sure there is no power in the system. once you have cleared the codes after you addressed the issues, re-check for any DTC codes after your test drive.

Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help. :rolleyes:
 
I am unable to adjust my timing with a light. Timed by light, it runs real bad and dies. Timed by ear so it runs smooth (pretty smooth) and the timing mark is off by about 25 degrees.
Can the Ignition Control Module cause symptoms like this?
I have been told that the module can not be tested. But I found out today that Auto Zone says they can test it, so I will be taking it up there in a couple days.
Thanks.
 
I am unable to adjust my timing with a light. Timed by light, it runs real bad and dies. Timed by ear so it runs smooth (pretty smooth) and the timing mark is off by about 25 degrees.
Can the Ignition Control Module cause symptoms like this?
I have been told that the module can not be tested. But I found out today that Auto Zone says they can test it, so I will be taking it up there in a couple days.
Thanks.

Your engine, a TBI engine and setting the timing requires that you disconnect the EST wire near the firewall under the black wire cover. It is either black with a tan line or tan with a black line, I can never remember. It can easily be disconnected and I think it is the only wire like that under the cover.

To use a timing light there is a wire that needs to be disconnected. Usaully the underhood engine decal will show how to time the engine. The base timing should be 0° but can be advance a couple degrees. To set the timing you must unplug the set timing connector. The set timing wire, which is a single Tan wire with a black stripe/tracer on it, is located, under the hood, on the main harness that goes from the engine to the firewall, on the passenger side, sometimes underneath the black plastic cover (if it’s still there) that covers the junction block, relays & fuses. It’s near the top usually on the back side of the harness. From the factory there is what looks like black tape around the harness holding the set timing wire to the back of the harness. Doing this will set a code 42 in the computer. Clear the code after you are done checking or setting the timing. :eek:


Keep me posted.
 
I disconnected the wire under the dash which I am told controls timing advance. Are you saying that there is another wire under the dash that needs to be disconnected?
 
I disconnected the wire under the dash which I am told controls timing advance. Are you saying that there is another wire under the dash that needs to be disconnected?

There is only one wire there that should be labeled. Here is information on Code 42 that should help us get a grip of what it means.

This is how the system is designed to work! Now let's look at some of the things that can cause problems and set a Code 42. Under 400 RPM, no voltage on the bypass wire, the ECM expects to see low voltage (300 mV) on the EST line during this condition. If it sees 0 volts, indicating an open in the EST circuit - or higher than 500 mV - it sets a Code 42 and stays in the bypass mode.

If the bypass line is open, or grounded, the ignition module will not switch to the EST mode. The ignition module needs the bypass voltage to activate the solid-state switch so the EST voltage will be low over 400 RPM and a Code 42 will set. If the EST line is grounded, the ignition module will switch to the EST - but because the line is grounded, there will be no EST signal. A Code 42 will set.

To check the ignition module to see if the solid-state switch is capable of switching when the 5 volts are applied, the engine should not be running and the ECM connectors should be disconnected. An ohm meter and test light can be used. With the ohm meter on the EST circuit, it should read less that 500 ohms (in some cases, a lot less). Using a test light to battery voltage, probe the bypass wire. With this voltage applied to the bypass wire, the solid-state switch inside the ignition module should switch and the ohm meter on the EST circuit should go over 5,000 ohms. There is also another way to check this with the engine running: by removing the bypass and the EST wire from the module or ECM, run a jumper from the reference wire to the EST circuit. The reference signal is the signal that is used in the bypass mode to trigger the primary coil voltage. Apply 5 volts from one of the 5-volt reference circuits or a test light to battery voltage. This voltage on the bypass wire will activate the solid-state switch, in turn switching the module. On some models, the 5 volts or test light will have to be applied before starting or the motor will stall when the voltage is applied to the bypass. If the module is switching OK, the car will continue to run on the reference signal. If it stalls, the ignition module is not switching properly.

When the engine is turning over, but below the run threshold of 400 RPM, the ECM holds the module's bypass voltage too low (0 volts) to energize its solid-state switch (ignition module). Another way of looking at the solid-state switch is to think of it as a relay. When voltage is applied, the relay is energized. With no voltage applied, the relay is de-energized. The pick-up coil/crank sensor pulses are amplified and shaped by the ignition module. These pulses are used to complete the circuit creating a magnetic field in the ignition coils primary winding that, when collapsing, will induce a high voltage in the secondary winding. Therefore, for every crank sensor/pick-up pulse, the coil is triggered. This is known as the bypass mode or module mode of operation. In this mode, the engine is running on the timing advance that is built into the ignition module.

With the voltage low on the bypass wire, the EST is pulled to ground through a resistor in the ignition module. This keeps the voltage on the EST wire at around 300 mV. When the ECM sees the RPM over the run threshold, it will then apply 5 volts to the bypass wire that will activate the solid-state switch (relay). This in turn will switch the EST from ground to the base of the transistor that controls the primary coil. In this mode, the primary coil winding is being triggered by the altered signal sent out from the ECM. The ECM will alter the signal to the ignition module and control the timing based on the inputs from various sensors. This is referred to as the EST mode.

With the EST circuit open, engine running, the voltage will stay low on the bypass wire and the ECM will not put out the 5 volts. With the EST shorted to ground, the voltage on the bypass wire will be high (5 volts) for a very short time (three seconds or less) then the ECM will remove the 5 volts. Using a min/max on the DVOM is the best way to see this voltage. With the bypass open, the EST circuit OK, the ECM will put out the 5 volts. By using a DVOM on both the EST and bypass wire, you can tap on the ECM, wiggle and tug on the wiring to see if the voltage or Hz reading will change. If it does, this is an indication that you have located the problem area. :eek:

Keep me posted, and hope we can get your Sierra running 100% again soon.
 
I finally got this thing timed. I disconnected my battery for about an hour, reconnected it and drove around the block. Now I have no trouble codes showing, only code 12. However, the truck still runs really nasty.

If it is running bad, shouldn't it show a code? Or don't all problems cause a code?

When I come to a stop it may stall or it may idle for a while and then stall or it may idle fine.

When I take off and I push the gas pedal down, it bogs down like its starved for gas. I need to give it real gentle acceleration or I need to feather it.

Cruising at 50mph or so it seems to run pretty good.

It seems to me that it is not getting gas. I put injector cleaner in the gas. No differance. I changed the gas filter a year or 2 ago.

My guesses would be fuel pump. But I don't think so.
Fuel filter. Very doubtful
Catalytic converter. No idea, but it does have 255,000 miles on it.

Whats my next best step?
 
I finally got this thing timed. I disconnected my battery for about an hour, reconnected it and drove around the block. Now I have no trouble codes showing, only code 12. However, the truck still runs really nasty.

If it is running bad, shouldn't it show a code? Or don't all problems cause a code?

When I come to a stop it may stall or it may idle for a while and then stall or it may idle fine.

When I take off and I push the gas pedal down, it bogs down like its starved for gas. I need to give it real gentle acceleration or I need to feather it.

Cruising at 50mph or so it seems to run pretty good.

It seems to me that it is not getting gas. I put injector cleaner in the gas. No differance. I changed the gas filter a year or 2 ago.

My guesses would be fuel pump. But I don't think so.
Fuel filter. Very doubtful
Catalytic converter. No idea, but it does have 255,000 miles on it.

Whats my next best step?

Recheck for codes again before moving on, just wondering if your distributor worm gear is worn. A worn worm gear can cause this issue, but a code will show up like the ones you had earlier. If there is no codes and you your engine is still running ruff and bogs down, your may have a vacuum leak on your line or a leaking or bad fuel pressure regulator.

Try removing your EGR valve and reinstall it after you cleaned out all the carbon build up and don't for get to get a new gasket if your old one is bad. A stick EGR valve can also cause the issues your having.

keep up the great work and please keep me posted.:D
 
Heres a picture of my EGR. No heavy carbon anywhere. Just your basic carbonated surfaces.

I was able to squeeze the diaphram be hand. The gasket stayed on the manifold. I just applied a film of gasket goop to the mating surface on the EGR and reinstalled.

I will have to wait till tomorrow to drive it through cold and hot to see how it runs. But so far, after a quick run down the road I think (and I use that word loosely) I notice a differance. I backed out of the drive quickly and it felt like a new truck. I got on the road and took off and there was just a bit of hesitation but much better than I am used to experiencing. So I stopped and took off again, accelerating very gently and there was hesitation but much better. It still wants to stall when I stop. It did not stall, but it came verrrry close.

The hose that hooks to the EGR...should there be any vacuum on it when idling? I put my finger over it and felt none.

I check my codes a couple times. Shows no codes.

I will try to check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.

P.S. The big plug that plugs into the carb...the retainer broke when I barely touched it, almost as easily as a...well, I can't think of anything that breaks that easy. Gotta remember to tape it.

Thanks for being there:D
 

Attachments

  • dcp_2546.webp
    dcp_2546.webp
    50.1 KB · Views: 126
Heres a picture of my EGR. No heavy carbon anywhere. Just your basic carbonated surfaces.

I was able to squeeze the diaphram be hand. The gasket stayed on the manifold. I just applied a film of gasket goop to the mating surface on the EGR and reinstalled.

I will have to wait till tomorrow to drive it through cold and hot to see how it runs. But so far, after a quick run down the road I think (and I use that word loosely) I notice a differance. I backed out of the drive quickly and it felt like a new truck. I got on the road and took off and there was just a bit of hesitation but much better than I am used to experiencing. So I stopped and took off again, accelerating very gently and there was hesitation but much better. It still wants to stall when I stop. It did not stall, but it came verrrry close.

The hose that hooks to the EGR...should there be any vacuum on it when idling? I put my finger over it and felt none.

I check my codes a couple times. Shows no codes.

I will try to check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.

P.S. The big plug that plugs into the carb...the retainer broke when I barely touched it, almost as easily as a...well, I can't think of anything that breaks that easy. Gotta remember to tape it.

Thanks for being there:D

Do you mean the wire clip to the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the IAC (Idle air control) valve. Regarndless, make sure both are in good working order.

The IAC controls your idle during different engine load at Idle such as having the A/C on and electrical load.

The TPS controls the shift points and firmness to your transmission also and also is used to control the Time advance to your engine.

Keep me posted. :)
 
If your statement "Do you mean the wire clip to the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the IAC (Idle air control) valve" is referring to the retainer that I broke, it is on an electrical plug with 4 pins that plugs into the throttle body right mext to the EGR. I'm sure it will be OK. It fits pretty tight. I will replace it if I can find a new one.
 
My truck almost stranded me yesterday. I went in the store and when I came out I started the truck and pulled out of the parking place. It stalled after 10 feet. It would start and immediately die. But each time I started it, it would run a split second longer. ANY gas pedal would prevent starting. It reaked of exhaust. Eventially it started and I drove home.

I rechecked plugs today. After a year and a half they all look perfect except one that has very slight tan on one side.

I started engine and squeezed EGR. Engine wanted to stall. When I released EGR it took 2-3 seconds for plunger to return and engine to smooth out. I revved engine and squeezed EGR. Wanted to stall but when I released it, it returned immediately. I removed hose from EGR. No vacuum at idle or rev.

I pulled PVC. Completely plugged. I felt for vacuum on hose with PVC removed. No vacuum at idle or rev.

Two other issues...
In the enclosed picture, I see a hose missing on the component that supplies vacuum to the EGR hose. What is this compnont and is this hose a missing nessessity or an optional thing?

And, I learned that some vehicles have a Electronic Vacuum Regulator valve which has a filter that needs regular cleaning. Does my vehicle have this EVR and where is it?

Thanks.
 
I checked my PCV. It is completely clogged. No vacuum to it. The hose is cracked at the throttle body fitting. I turned a drill bit inside the throttle body fitting. Pulled out a ton of sludge!!!

I this a complete throttle body rebuild? Any comments or suggestions?
 
Last edited:
I checked my PVC. It is completely clogged. No vacuum to it. The hose is cracked at the throttle body fitting. I turned a drill bit inside the throttle body fitting. Pulled out a ton of sludge!!!

I this a complete throttle body rebuild? Any comments or suggestions?

Keep it simpler and try using Seafoam to clean out the sludge and carbon build up before you of taking things apart. :eek:

http://www.seafoamsales.com/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt_oXKxe3wo&feature=related
 


Back
Top