1997 1500 locked in 4 wheel

Yeah, it was the fuel pump. It has been changed and the truck is running fine.

I unplugged the connector to the actuator and the truck is now in 2WD. I had a buddy of mine take a look at the switch, he cracked it open and hooked it up to a multi-meter. It looks like everything is good in there, but still the actuator is getting 12v whether or not the switch is plugged into the vehicle.

Sound like I have a short circuit. What should my next test be?
 
Alright, so it's winter time and now my truck won't go into 4x4, So I am going to go ahead and say that my actuator is shot.

I am hoping to change it out this weekend, I'd imagine its a straight forward job but is there any tips you can give me that might speed up the process? any special tools I might need?

Thanks
 
McCool said:
Alright, so it's winter time and now my truck won't go into 4x4, So I am going to go ahead and say that my actuator is shot.

I am hoping to change it out this weekend, I'd imagine its a straight forward job but is there any tips you can give me that might speed up the process? any special tools I might need?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Common tools needed and take your time to do the job right the first time, also keep warm friend. ;)

Keep us posted. :D
 
long time no post but I have an update.

I finally got around to installing the new actuator, it was a lot easier than I first thought it would be. but the problem has not been fixed. My truck still won't go into 4x4.

What can I do do diagnose this problem because I would really like to have 4x4 for this winter especially since I have already sunk $130 into it.

thanks.
 
McCool said:
long time no post but I have an update.

I finally got around to installing the new actuator, it was a lot easier than I first thought it would be. but the problem has not been fixed. My truck still won't go into 4x4.

What can I do do diagnose this problem because I would really like to have 4x4 for this winter especially since I have already sunk $130 into it.

thanks.
Click to expand...

Electrical issues is such a PINA, start with tracing the brown wire from the actuator to make sure there is 12V. If there is no power to the actuator, trace the wire back to the source to here the power is coming from.

Could be a simple wire harness clip gone bad from the switch on the transfer case that needs to be replaced from corrosion. FOR 1995-97 INTERIM VEHICLES, LOCATE THE 4-WIRE CONNECTOR (C120) ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION. SPLICE THE BRN WIRE OF THE ACTUATOR HARNESS INTO CAVITY D OF CKT 241 (BRN) ON THE ENGINE SIDE OF CONNECTOR C120.

Start with that and hope is just a break in the wire so you don't have to replace any more parts. The next thing to do is check the ball switch on top of the t-case, it may be broken wire or swithc has failed. If you remove the switch and push the ball in, it should send power to the actuator, have you also rechecked the 4wd fuse in the dash fuse box? If could have shorted out when you replaced the actuator with the new one and had to splice the new wire harness.

Good luck and keep us posted. Stay warm;)

Molson02536
 
I am getting 11.8 volts at the brown wire when the ignition is on and the car is not running.

I took the actuator out of the truck and hooked it up the the harness and got a friend to press the switch inside the truck to see if it was engaging and it was not.

so if I am getting 11.8 volts to the actuator and it is still not engaging and the actuator is brand spanking new, what does that mean?

How do I bench test the actuator? do you know of a place where I can find wiring diagrams for the 1500? Does this mean that the switch is shot?

Thanks Molson!
 
McCool said:
I am getting 11.8 volts at the brown wire when the ignition is on and the car is not running.

I took the actuator out of the truck and hooked it up the the harness and got a friend to press the switch inside the truck to see if it was engaging and it was not.

so if I am getting 11.8 volts to the actuator and it is still not engaging and the actuator is brand spanking new, what does that mean?

How do I bench test the actuator? do you know of a place where I can find wiring diagrams for the 1500? Does this mean that the switch is shot?

Thanks Molson!
Click to expand...

The actuator is a ground side switch and is one of the last ones in the ciruit. The transfer case switch is the first switch in the circuit. When you switch to 4wd the t-case switch closes and that sends power to the actuator.

Check the t-case switch (you can run a jumper wire and see if the 4wd engages then). There is a chance that the new actuator is bad but that is a very low chance. One you take it all apart again, cleaned the female end of the actuator plug on the switch and actuator. Then put everything back together and hope it works.

Concept of circuit is as easy as 1,2,3 and, well, (,4).
1) key in run hots fuse and t-case switch
2) T-case switch heats actuator (and hots solenoid switch)
3) Actuator moves gears, which closes (turns on) solenoid switch
4) Solenoid switch lights lamp (and disables anti-lock brakes)

Since this is not the 1-ton, you don't have to worry about
the t-case relay or syncronizer.
Here is a link to what you asked for. http://www.truckforum.org/forums/at...ut-wont-turn-front-wheels-94-chv-4wd-wire.jpg

http://www.truckforum.org/forums/at...ut-wont-turn-front-wheels-94-chv-4wd-wr-3.jpg

Molson02536
 
dude if the switches don't light up then don't waste your time under the tk.

Check all fuses sounds like you have a bad one check under hood and in cab there are two fuse boxes.
 
Hi I am new to these forums. I just bought a 97 GMC sierra 1500 Z71 and my 4x4 does not seem to be working anymore. It was in 4HI and I switched it to 2HI got to slippery so I put it back in 4HI, drove home everything fine, on my way back to work the 4HI button starts flashing at me it flashed in 4LO as well. now if you push 4HI then 4LO the 4HI stays solid and the 4LO flashes. I checked the 4WD fuse and it was blown, so I changed it and started it up and tried again, as soon as I pushed the button the fuse blew with a blue spark shooting out the side. What part of the wiring causes that?
 
McCool I just sold a 96 Z71 with same problem but my solution was to push in slightly on dash just to the left of the four by four switches to make them light up. Once they have lit up then i can select 2hi 4hi or 4low. Sometimes i have to hold pressure with one finger while pushing switch with another but unless the lights are on in the switches while u push the buttons nothing will happen. I had the truck for five years and it was like this from the day i bought it. Obviously a bad connection somewhere behind switches. Good luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page



Back
Top