2011 Sierra with 800 miles problem
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bob323@tds.net
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Did the replacement transmission 'fix the problem', or do you still have the issue? Thx.
Did the replacement transmission 'fix the problem', or do you still have the issue? Thx.
GMC Customer Service
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Sorry to hear about the issues! Please keep us posted on your progress and let me know if there's anything I can do. Thank you!
Joey, GM Customer Service
belvata1234
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2011 sierra
Hello Laura could you send me a PM in reguards to the post about the clunk in the shifting?
Thank You
Tom
Hello Laura could you send me a PM in reguards to the post about the clunk in the shifting?
Thank You
Tom
wildhawg
New member
I own a 2008 1500 4X4 and it has clunked in between accell and decell . I bought it from a dealership in Mesa,AZ. When I got back to Cathedral City,CA I washed for the 1st time. for the first time I got down underneath the truck and noticed that all of the paint on the third member had at some time melted off or was scorched off. the entire differential housing was rusted. I took it to a local dealership and they checked it out and repainted the housing black again. I guess outta sight outta mind. When I bought the truck it had 26800 miles on it. I have put another 10,000 on it. The paint is still on the housing so I guess whatever caused it to get hot enough to melt the paint off the first time was resolved. The clunk is still there and when driving at highway speed (60-70mph) when you lift off and coast there is a momentary rumbling and vibration that you can hear. I took to my local dealership they said they couldn't get it to make any noticeable sound or vibration, so, they balanced the wheels and told me that should do it. It didn't make any difference. It still makes the noise. Guess it didn't make the sound when they drove it around a couple of blocks @ 30 mph by the dealership !! Anyway I am 61years old and have worked on every car or truck I have ever owned and my opinion is, it is a bearing on one of the quarter shafts in the front end or a transmission bearing going out. I didn't want to be surprised when it does so I purchased the extended GMMP warranty so now I have another 5 years or 50,000 for the problem to develop. I also love the pickup and want to keep it. The dealerships I have been to have been very helpful and fixed everything I have brought to their attention. I just think they are overloaded with repairs and can't take the time to really discover the problems. I was so happy to find a thread on this problem keep me informed as to how this works out
happy 2011
New member
wildhawg
I can tell you this my friend! There not to busy to fix your tk. The problem is there techs are flat rate techs and they will not take the time to find your problem becaues they will not make any money. Sad but true
I can tell you this my friend! There not to busy to fix your tk. The problem is there techs are flat rate techs and they will not take the time to find your problem becaues they will not make any money. Sad but true
Hi there, just joined today-first post.
I just bought a 2011 SLE ext cab 5.3 6 Spd-so far no issues, however, I have had previously a 2002 & 1997 Sierra with the "infamous GM driveline clunk", with both those trucks I had slip yoke assembly replaced under warranty & it went away.
Cheers
I just bought a 2011 SLE ext cab 5.3 6 Spd-so far no issues, however, I have had previously a 2002 & 1997 Sierra with the "infamous GM driveline clunk", with both those trucks I had slip yoke assembly replaced under warranty & it went away.
Cheers
Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (Jan 5, 2005)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)
1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)
1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)
2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe
2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)
2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)
1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)
1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)
1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)
1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)
2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)
2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)
2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY
This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
Cause
A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
Diagnostic Tips
There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028
Correction
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.
Follow the service procedure below.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI Document ID #349918).
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.
Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.
3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.
4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.
5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.
6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.
7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.
10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
12. Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.
13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.
14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.
18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.
30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.
31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.
32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).
33. Lower the vehicle.
Parts
12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)
12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)
1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)
1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)
2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe
2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)
2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)
1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)
1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)
1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)
1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)
2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL
2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)
2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)
2003-2005 HUMMER H2
with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY
This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
Cause
A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
Diagnostic Tips
There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028
Correction
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.
Follow the service procedure below.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI Document ID #349918).
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.
Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.
3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.
4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.
5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.
Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.
6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.
7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.
10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
12. Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.
13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.
14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.
18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.
30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.
31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.
32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).
33. Lower the vehicle.
Parts
12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)
12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)
I have had the same thing happen with my 2011 SLE Crew Cab. At first, I dismissed it as a fluke but the repetition, though not constant, is beginning to concern me. I discussed this with another owner and he said he was told there is a software glitch with the new transmission and GM would update the software once its figured out. He was told as long as he got no warning indicator not to be alarmed and that the transmission was covered for 100K if a serious problem should exist. I'll be discussing with my dealer at my first opportunity.
ok ok.....2012! gmc sierra crew cab....378 miles....same thing...not persistant...but noticeable...only when accellerating from low speed or decellerating to come to a stop....ive noticed my RPMS jump slightly upon decelleration....between 500 and 1000...heard teh trannu..."slip" or clunk like twice......i thought it was just me and that i hand to get used to the vehicle and the active management system.....but from what im hearing,,,,,
i took it my service dept and they dismissed it as well....said that the engine light would come on if there was a real problem
any one get any answers?
i took it my service dept and they dismissed it as well....said that the engine light would come on if there was a real problem
any one get any answers?
2011 Sierra problems too!
I too have been having problems with my 2011 Sierra as well. I had a 2007 Sierra and never had any problems with it at all. It ran like a charm and I am sorry I went with a new one.
Since I first got the truck I have had nothing but problems with it. I have the same clunking that some of you describe while driving. It is almost as if the transmission does not want to shift when taking off then suddenly grabs and clunks. I too have been told it was normal.
I have had problems with my truck not only being low on oil but nothing reading on the dipstick. My stabilitrack warning lights and service lights have now been engaged. My engine light has come on at different times. Once due to a crack in a spark plug or so I was told. My tires never ever keep their pressure. Onstar is constantly advising me about that. My braking system seems off as well. I am ready to toss that truck into a lake. I have regular oil changes and service. My truck is a 1500 4x4 with the Z71 package. It now has 40,000km on it which are all higway km's and is in for service yet again.
I am 50yrs old and do not drive it like I am on a race track.
Should prove interesting to know what the Dealer tells me this time.
I too have been having problems with my 2011 Sierra as well. I had a 2007 Sierra and never had any problems with it at all. It ran like a charm and I am sorry I went with a new one.
Since I first got the truck I have had nothing but problems with it. I have the same clunking that some of you describe while driving. It is almost as if the transmission does not want to shift when taking off then suddenly grabs and clunks. I too have been told it was normal.
I have had problems with my truck not only being low on oil but nothing reading on the dipstick. My stabilitrack warning lights and service lights have now been engaged. My engine light has come on at different times. Once due to a crack in a spark plug or so I was told. My tires never ever keep their pressure. Onstar is constantly advising me about that. My braking system seems off as well. I am ready to toss that truck into a lake. I have regular oil changes and service. My truck is a 1500 4x4 with the Z71 package. It now has 40,000km on it which are all higway km's and is in for service yet again.
I am 50yrs old and do not drive it like I am on a race track.
Should prove interesting to know what the Dealer tells me this time.
Been to the dealer yet again!
Well apparently the clunk is caused because it is a 4x4. Funny my 2007 was also a 4x4 and never once clunked. They replaced the valve cover and said that is why my 2011 Sierra has been running so bad. Apparently that should correct why I kept losing oil ect. We shall see. I really hope there are no more issues with this truck but I can see it going back again. None of what I was told makes any sense to me.
Well apparently the clunk is caused because it is a 4x4. Funny my 2007 was also a 4x4 and never once clunked. They replaced the valve cover and said that is why my 2011 Sierra has been running so bad. Apparently that should correct why I kept losing oil ect. We shall see. I really hope there are no more issues with this truck but I can see it going back again. None of what I was told makes any sense to me.
bluebell
New member
I have a 2011 Sierra SLT 4WD crewcab with the 5.3L and 6spd auto. I now have about 3500km on it... When i first bought the truck, it would clunk and lurch when slowing to a stop, then accelerating again. It seemed for a while like it wasn't downshifting soon enough, then would kick-down abruptly to first gear when I got back on the throttle causing the clunk and jerking feeling. As time has gone on, this has gone away. I was a little pissed at first, thinking something was wrong with it, but now I have just chalked it up the the adaptive shift pattern learning that most modern automatics use... I am very easy on the truck, driving with light throttle everywhere I go, and considering it has gotten better, I can only assume it's adapting to my driving habits. Hope this helps anyone out there with similar issues. I love this Sierra...
machinistkeys
New member
buy it from a dealer? use you warranty. no need in getting your hands dirty
Zombie Ninja
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Was this a technical service bulletin? Would this still be repaired on vehicles obviously out of the warranty time frame?? Bought a used 1999 Sierra and have done quite a few maintenance repairs and have definitely noticed this noise. Thanks in advance.
my $ 0.02
Just wanted to voice my concern. I am also a 2011 gmc sierra work truck owner (4 speed automatic tranny) and mine is doing the same thing, slow down to about 10-20 mph then re-accelarate and "thunk" . this is a problem with the rear end gears or transmission. or the computer needs to be retuned to shift into 2nd gear instead of first. all these other people having problems with car adapting to the driving habit is irrelavent. i've had this problem since day one and I have taken the truck in. thank god i bought that extended warranty for 3 grand. The dealership told me the same thing , (they are aware of the problem , that this has been reported by other new model gmc owners , but it is not causing any damage , so they don't have a fix. I contacted gmc corporate, and they set up another appointment to take it back to the dealership? i will post the results .
Just wanted to voice my concern. I am also a 2011 gmc sierra work truck owner (4 speed automatic tranny) and mine is doing the same thing, slow down to about 10-20 mph then re-accelarate and "thunk" . this is a problem with the rear end gears or transmission. or the computer needs to be retuned to shift into 2nd gear instead of first. all these other people having problems with car adapting to the driving habit is irrelavent. i've had this problem since day one and I have taken the truck in. thank god i bought that extended warranty for 3 grand. The dealership told me the same thing , (they are aware of the problem , that this has been reported by other new model gmc owners , but it is not causing any damage , so they don't have a fix. I contacted gmc corporate, and they set up another appointment to take it back to the dealership? i will post the results .
I'm at our dealer right now. 2011 GMC 5.3l 6 spd 2wd 32,000 miles. Driveline thump when coming to a stop sign since day one. They said it probably is 'normal' but for sake of trying - they are replacing the slip yoke with a nickel plated one. They pulled the drive shaft last week and lubed everything and my wife and I both thought it got worse!
We will see how the magical shiny slip yoke works.
We will see how the magical shiny slip yoke works.
It's been a little over a week. The original noise is gone - YAY!- but we have a different clunk that seems to be related to the programming and timing of active fuel management and the busy shifting of the 6 speed. I learned about putting the tranny in manual and bump it up to 5th. That turns off the active fuel management and makes the tranny a 5 speed. We were out of town this weekend and so far we have better mpg and ZERO drivetrain noise.
I am going to talk to my dealer and see if there is a tranny/afm firmware update.
And if not, we can certainly drive a 5 speed!
GM - please get rid of afm - it doesn't work (meaning save fuel) and seems to be a lousy gimmick to appease your EPA numbers.
I am going to talk to my dealer and see if there is a tranny/afm firmware update.
And if not, we can certainly drive a 5 speed!
GM - please get rid of afm - it doesn't work (meaning save fuel) and seems to be a lousy gimmick to appease your EPA numbers.
I am going to tell you right now they will never get rid of AFM. Anything that has the potential to save fuel they will use. And by save fuel they don't mean on your particular truck but the entire GM fleet as a whole. As long as its even a 0.001% increase, its means a heck of lot for corporate average fuel economy (CAFE). If you don't like it, don't buy a vehicle with the 5.3L engine, that what I did. The 4.8L and the 6.2L in the trucks currently DO NOT HAVE AFM, the 6.2L in the SUV does.
The gov't (EPA) is mandating trucks have to get 25 mpg by 2015 or else they will have to stop selling as many to avoid huge fines for not meeting the CAFE standards set by your gov't. You elected these people and now you have to live with it. You do know that there are some in the gov't and elsewhere that want to see trucks and suvs gone from the roads forever. Why, mainly because they see us driving all small electric vehicles and big trucks/suvs hurt when one of them gets hit by one. They want everyone to be the same and by that they mean, in small cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVdMySWfAIQ&feature=player_embedded
The gov't (EPA) is mandating trucks have to get 25 mpg by 2015 or else they will have to stop selling as many to avoid huge fines for not meeting the CAFE standards set by your gov't. You elected these people and now you have to live with it. You do know that there are some in the gov't and elsewhere that want to see trucks and suvs gone from the roads forever. Why, mainly because they see us driving all small electric vehicles and big trucks/suvs hurt when one of them gets hit by one. They want everyone to be the same and by that they mean, in small cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVdMySWfAIQ&feature=player_embedded
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