I need to find How to take dashboard out of 1991 GMC Jimmy S15?
- Thread starter Chaser
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sunpekes
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Your in for it. Begin by disconnecting the battery.
Then unbolt the supports from the passenger side at firewall and under the dash. Loosen but don't remove the support at the drivers side. Remove the dash retaining screws accross the upper dash at the windshield, look into the vent area/ defrost. Pop the trim to get at the hidden screws. Drop the steering wheel down at the support bracket.
Look inside the floor vent for hidden screws, and along the top of the case. There are several screws you can see that are tough to remove and even harder to put back.
Also there are clips that hold the case together.
All done properly there will be a little resistance to moveing the dash back to the rear of the vehicle. But a bit of wiggling should free it.
With hoses off there will come a point that the case will seperate and you can after removing the vacume lines be able to remove the clips, retaining screws and sealer. You should be able to wiggle the core out of it's seat.
Be sure to get some new sealer to reinstall. Normally you will need a helper but it can be done alone if inside a garage. If it's your first one, your looking at a days work or more. Caution the factories leave sharp edges on sheet metal parts. Expect injuries. Deep, nasty cuts.
Oh! Forgot to tell you to remove the glove box to begin.
Then unbolt the supports from the passenger side at firewall and under the dash. Loosen but don't remove the support at the drivers side. Remove the dash retaining screws accross the upper dash at the windshield, look into the vent area/ defrost. Pop the trim to get at the hidden screws. Drop the steering wheel down at the support bracket.
Look inside the floor vent for hidden screws, and along the top of the case. There are several screws you can see that are tough to remove and even harder to put back.
Also there are clips that hold the case together.
All done properly there will be a little resistance to moveing the dash back to the rear of the vehicle. But a bit of wiggling should free it.
With hoses off there will come a point that the case will seperate and you can after removing the vacume lines be able to remove the clips, retaining screws and sealer. You should be able to wiggle the core out of it's seat.
Be sure to get some new sealer to reinstall. Normally you will need a helper but it can be done alone if inside a garage. If it's your first one, your looking at a days work or more. Caution the factories leave sharp edges on sheet metal parts. Expect injuries. Deep, nasty cuts.
Oh! Forgot to tell you to remove the glove box to begin.
cdutton977
New member
I had to remove the digital dash out of my '91, it was a pain in the ass. Took me a full day to get it out (I had no manual) and five hours to put it back. The hardest part was the heater/AC controls. Patience is definitely a virtue here.
Molson02536
New member
Replacing your heater core is not that bad and you should be able to do the job yourself without paying a mechanic. Just have a couple swear jars cause they make the frustration a little less when doing these kind of jobs.
If you have small hands, you should not need to remove your dash cause you can get your hands up in there. You may just need to loosen some fasteners to get some wiggle room. I would budget your time for a whole morning and afternoon to get it done.
Parts you will need:
A gallon of coolant (you mix it with a gallon of water)
The heater core itself
Both heater hoses that you unhook, they are cheap and you can use black rubber garden hose or buy the hoses from the parts department
Tools you will need:
10MM & 7MM 1/4 drive sockets
basic screwdrivers
utility knife
elbow grease
Have a look up under your passenger side foot area, there is a big black box made of plastic, the heater core is inside there. Have a look that its not the hoses themselves that are leaking into the cab, cause it may not be the heater core itself. Also have a look at the rest of your coolant hoses, it they are getting dry or balooning, you might as well change them out as well when you are dumping the cooling system. Hoses are cheap. there will be 2 fat ones coming off the radiator, and 2 going to the heater core.
Dont forget this forum either, you can get the help you need from us to tackle any job that truck is going to throw at you in the coming years. The people here are awesome and Ive gotten alot of help myself since joining up. Theres a few guys here that can tell you off the top of their heads how many threads are on the bolts that hold the gastank up, or what the bearing clearances are on the camshaft etc, they know these trucks better than they know their own families it seems
For tightening up hose clamps to know if they are tight enough. Hook a test light up to the (+) on your batter or a 12V source. Touch light to hose clamp, tighten hose clamp. When its tight enough, the test light will light up. If its too tight it cuts into the hose. This trick will not work if you unhooked the (-) on your battery though, so make sure you have reconnected the battery again.
Here is a link that should help you get the job done. http://www.ehow.com/how_5425319_remove-heater-core-gmc-jimmy.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_5536872_install-heater-core-gmc-jimmy.html
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