I have a short In my left turn signal. I checked the bulbs and the tail light wiring but can't find the broken wire. Here is the thing, I'm wondering if the multiswit h on the steering column has something to do with it? Cause I have no high beams either??? And kinda getting pissed off about it!!! Can someone help me out here? Thanks
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Short in my turn signals
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turn signal short
Remove all left turn bulbs. Check the socket connection for a short if you have an electrical tester. Examine the bulbs because a shorted bulb can cause your symptoms. Replace the bulbs one at a time and turn flasher on after each bulb install.
Sadly, if the problem doesn't raise its ugly head, you'll have to trace the wires. And that is time consuming.
Does the fuse pop with emergency flashers on?
Remove all left turn bulbs. Check the socket connection for a short if you have an electrical tester. Examine the bulbs because a shorted bulb can cause your symptoms. Replace the bulbs one at a time and turn flasher on after each bulb install.
Sadly, if the problem doesn't raise its ugly head, you'll have to trace the wires. And that is time consuming.
Does the fuse pop with emergency flashers on?
Short
Ok the left turn signal flashes fast and the parking light flashes with the left turn signal also. So I'm wondering if the flashed is bad? I replaced the combo switch and It was working fine for a Lil bit. Now it is still flashing fast aging and I don't know where to look now.
Ok the left turn signal flashes fast and the parking light flashes with the left turn signal also. So I'm wondering if the flashed is bad? I replaced the combo switch and It was working fine for a Lil bit. Now it is still flashing fast aging and I don't know where to look now.
signal short
If your turn flasher has failed it would act the same on both right and left blinkers.
The symptoms you describe lead me to believe you have a bad or poorly connected ground wire. To check; disconnect any external braking system (trailer brake set up), remove front and rear light assembly as a unit and somehow connect a wire to the outside of the light bulb sockets and run the wire to a chassis ground or better yet, to the negative battery terminal. Then check turn flasher function.
Trouble shooting electrical is extremely frustrating because the only rules are: 1) isolate the system, you have to disconnect both ends of the wire. From the source (battery or switch), to the load side (lights, fan etc..). 2) you can't see electricity so you don't know where it's going.
You haven't said if you have an electrical tester (multimeter). You need one if haven't already. $10 to $20 is all you need to spend.
I feel your pain. I bought my wife a low mileage 99' Jimmy 3 yrs ago. She just had to have it. And there is always something wrong with it, electrical and mechanical.
If your turn flasher has failed it would act the same on both right and left blinkers.
The symptoms you describe lead me to believe you have a bad or poorly connected ground wire. To check; disconnect any external braking system (trailer brake set up), remove front and rear light assembly as a unit and somehow connect a wire to the outside of the light bulb sockets and run the wire to a chassis ground or better yet, to the negative battery terminal. Then check turn flasher function.
Trouble shooting electrical is extremely frustrating because the only rules are: 1) isolate the system, you have to disconnect both ends of the wire. From the source (battery or switch), to the load side (lights, fan etc..). 2) you can't see electricity so you don't know where it's going.
You haven't said if you have an electrical tester (multimeter). You need one if haven't already. $10 to $20 is all you need to spend.
I feel your pain. I bought my wife a low mileage 99' Jimmy 3 yrs ago. She just had to have it. And there is always something wrong with it, electrical and mechanical.
signal short
You're welcome. I hope at least some of the info does you good. Yes, the trailer wires are hooked directly to your burb wiring
I'd go right at the trailer hook up first because the wires are normally exposed and take a beating from water, mud and brush. The terminals and connections can become severely rusted and dirty. If you have a trailer brake over ride or adjustment unit, in or under the dashboard, you may want to disconnect it totally for test purposes
You're welcome. I hope at least some of the info does you good. Yes, the trailer wires are hooked directly to your burb wiring
I'd go right at the trailer hook up first because the wires are normally exposed and take a beating from water, mud and brush. The terminals and connections can become severely rusted and dirty. If you have a trailer brake over ride or adjustment unit, in or under the dashboard, you may want to disconnect it totally for test purposes
signal
There are 2 items concerning the trailer braking and lighting system. 1) to answer your question, near your trailer hitch, or where the hitch should be, there is an electrical plug-in set up within 6 inches to a foot of where the trailer ball sits (the receiver or trailer hitch). It's there so you can connect the trailer lighting and trailer brakes (if so equipped) to the vehicle lighting and braking system. The trailer electrical just plugs into it. 2) having a factory towing package on the burb does not necessarily mean that you have the electrical brake set-up. You could have lights only, meaning running lights, turn flashers and stop lights. But, if you have electrical trailer braking, you will have a controller installed in, or most probably, under the dash board. You'll know if it's there because it's within easy reach while driving (so driver can apply extra braking if needed) and you've probably bumped your knee into it while entering or exiting the vehicle.
So, if you don't have a trailer braking controller (electrical brakes), you need only be concerned (at this point) with the wires on the rear of vehicle, from tail lights and rearward.
There are 2 items concerning the trailer braking and lighting system. 1) to answer your question, near your trailer hitch, or where the hitch should be, there is an electrical plug-in set up within 6 inches to a foot of where the trailer ball sits (the receiver or trailer hitch). It's there so you can connect the trailer lighting and trailer brakes (if so equipped) to the vehicle lighting and braking system. The trailer electrical just plugs into it. 2) having a factory towing package on the burb does not necessarily mean that you have the electrical brake set-up. You could have lights only, meaning running lights, turn flashers and stop lights. But, if you have electrical trailer braking, you will have a controller installed in, or most probably, under the dash board. You'll know if it's there because it's within easy reach while driving (so driver can apply extra braking if needed) and you've probably bumped your knee into it while entering or exiting the vehicle.
So, if you don't have a trailer braking controller (electrical brakes), you need only be concerned (at this point) with the wires on the rear of vehicle, from tail lights and rearward.
If you're confident that the trailer electrical is correct, then search for a bad ground. Remove front and back turn flasher bulbs, turn on flasher and check for power in the bulb socket. You did get that testing meter, right? If flasher blinks quickly then take a piece of electrical wire with an alligator clip on one end, and attach it the outside of the bulb socket. Attach other end to a solid ground (frame). This gives the socket a dependable ground. Check front and back lights the same way.
If still not solved, then pull all bulbs. Running, turn flasher, brake.. Do same test on all.
If it's not a bad ground, my next thought would be a crossed wire or a bad bulb socket. Pulling all the bulbs will help.
If still not solved, then pull all bulbs. Running, turn flasher, brake.. Do same test on all.
If it's not a bad ground, my next thought would be a crossed wire or a bad bulb socket. Pulling all the bulbs will help.