Typhoon clone??

89Blaze925

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I have an 89 s10 Blazer with the 1st Generation TBI 4.3L V6 (non vortec)
I recently got the urge to see if it was possible to take MY motor, do the necessary modifications and have a "Chevy Typhoon Clone." After some research it seems to me the factory typhoons have beefier internals, a Chevy Astro L35 intake, a 80-90s Corvette throttle body, and of course a Turbo/inter cooler.
Now, I need help from all yu "SyTy" owners and fanatics out there to lemme know everything I'm missing as far as parts, and where to get wiring harnesses/ECU's, and to tell me in general if this is even possible.

**PLEASE NO FIGHTING AMONGST POSTERS HERE I NEED EVERYONE'S OPINION AND INFORMATION HERE SO THERE IS NO WRONG ANSWERS. THANKS**
 
I have an 89 s10 Blazer with the 1st Generation TBI 4.3L V6 (non vortec)
I recently got the urge to see if it was possible to take MY motor, do the necessary modifications and have a "Chevy Typhoon Clone." After some research it seems to me the factory typhoons have beefier internals, a Chevy Astro L35 intake, a 80-90s Corvette throttle body, and of course a Turbo/inter cooler.
Now, I need help from all yu "SyTy" owners and fanatics out there to lemme know everything I'm missing as far as parts, and where to get wiring harnesses/ECU's, and to tell me in general if this is even possible.

**PLEASE NO FIGHTING AMONGST POSTERS HERE I NEED EVERYONE'S OPINION AND INFORMATION HERE SO THERE IS NO WRONG ANSWERS. THANKS**

Its going to cost you more then it would to buy a used typhoon on e-bay if you can find al the parts needed. Parts are hard to find since there no longer on a GM parts shelf, why do you think some typhoon owners have swapped out there tired or blown engines for a LS1 set up with a turbo in it???

But in the end, you still don't have a Typhoon. :(

If you need more information on this build, let me know and i can point out the other areas to where you have to also keep in mind. Such as to getting a limited slip rear end and swapping out your front axle and axle tube on the passenger side so you wont snap the weak locking axle that is in yours now.

The front torsion bars need to be replaced with a ty or sy bars and the rear leaf springs need to be turned into a 2 plus 1 leaf system with air auto leveling system as to your is a 3 plus 1 leaf system without levelers. Without doing this, your clone will ride like the way it does now and will not corner and handle like a typhoon.

Good luck and hope this helps

Molson02536
 
RE:Typhoon Clone

I just wanna say that so far, yu have had the most, and some of the best info so far. and that you and i will be in contact over the next few weeks to hash out all the big/lil issues i know ill have.

Below is a basic idea, of the end result im going for:

My basic overall goal is to have a one-off Blazer that hauls ass with a pumped up V6
I want it to be a fully functional daily driver, and have all the performance of the Typhoon with some slight differences.
i wanna run a NV3500 5speed instead of the Automatic,(i have burnt thru 2 autos in my stock 4.3 so i think its time to try something else.) and i wanna retain the RWD rather than have the AWD.

Now so far, with some of the other forum posts i have read replies to, It sounds to me like my best bet is to gut the blazer, stack up some cash and drop in a SyTy Crate motor. Sounds faster, and more cost effective than trying to build up my block.

If i decide to go that route, where would i go about finding the ECU and Harness for the wiring?? <<this seems like my next big task
 
I just wanna say that so far, yu have had the most, and some of the best info so far. and that you and i will be in contact over the next few weeks to hash out all the big/lil issues i know ill have.

Below is a basic idea, of the end result im going for:

My basic overall goal is to have a one-off Blazer that hauls ass with a pumped up V6
I want it to be a fully functional daily driver, and have all the performance of the Typhoon with some slight differences.
i wanna run a NV3500 5speed instead of the Automatic,(i have burnt thru 2 autos in my stock 4.3 so i think its time to try something else.) and i wanna retain the RWD rather than have the AWD.

Now so far, with some of the other forum posts i have read replies to, It sounds to me like my best bet is to gut the blazer, stack up some cash and drop in a SyTy Crate motor. Sounds faster, and more cost effective than trying to build up my block.

If i decide to go that route, where would i go about finding the ECU and Harness for the wiring?? <<this seems like my next big task

You not going to get the same performance from Typhoon unless you have one and all the parts are in order. The Typhoon and Syclone gets its performance from all the parts working together and tuned to run the way it did. This is why when Ty and SY owners started to add on after market power add ons. They ether lost an engine or performance and reliability.

If you have a 2 wd now, your going to have to beef up the rear end. If you have a 4wd, your going to want to convert it to a AWD. Its not that hard, I have done it to my 96 Jimmy and will be doing it with the 02 jimmy i just bought a few months ago and will be lowering it about 1.5 inch to 2 inches.

Motor wise, if your going to stay with a V6, drop in a marine 4.3 block. The block will have a 4 bolt main as to having a 2 bolt maine in a car block. If you run the 9.2:1 compression ratio which is the normal N/A engine, then you don't have to run anymore then maybe 8 PSI to keep it a daily driver and manageable since it will be very high on torque.

The SY/TY block was a 2 bolt main, forged crank but not all came with forged cranks and ran a 8.5:1 ratio to make it more reliable and driver friendly with 15 PSI of boost. The biggest issue your going to have is the tuning to get 110% of the engines potential being only a obd1 system and fine tuning will be hard to do unless you have a stand lone ecm.

Not to distract you from what your looking to make but here is food for thought. What about throwing boost at a 5.3L Gen III small-block just makes too make things more interesting and cheaper. Secondhand OEM hardware stockpiled in junkyards has always been the best cheap performance bang for the bucks, and the LS-series small-block takes this universal truth to the extreme.

Take note that the downside to the 6.0L truck motor is that some early ones had piston-slap issues and GM built way more 1/2-ton trucks and SUVs with 5.3L engines than it did 3/4-ton models with the 6.0L. This is a good thing cause the Salvage yards are selling 5.3L LM7 engine plucked out of an '01 GMC Yukon-complete with a matching computer and wiring harness with a 4L60E and ECM can be had for as low as $800.00 , while their bigger 6.0L brother fetches $1,800 to $2,500 and many of the Salvage yards I know of offered some type of guarantee that their engines are in good working condition.

To control the fuel and spark, match it up to a stock computer with a HPTuners tuning software, 42 lb/hr fuel injectors, and a GM 2.5-bar MAP sensor off of a new Chevy Cobalt SS. This is what your going to need if your going to boost any late model engine. you cant just add a supercharger or turbo and say its done:eek:

With the 5.3 and on 93-octane pump gas, set the waste-gate at 8 psi of boost from a T76 turbo with A/R of 0.68,0.81. and tune your ECM fuel ratio to a conservative 11.8:1 air/fuel ratio and 16 degrees of ignition timing. The stock valve-springs should be swapped out for a set of LS6 units to keep the valves from floating and the stock 5.3L motor is choked by its small cam. Installed a stock GM LS6 camshaft, The cam is PN 12560950, its from a '01 LS unit. The LS6 cam's wide lobe-separation angle should make it boost-friendly. This set up should just get you under the 580 hp mark inter-cooled :D

As for the transmission, keep the 4L60E or upgrade to the 4L65E automatic. These transmissions are much better and friendlier then the 700R4 that you had which was a mechanical transmission that needed to be tuned, but never was which caused lots of early failures.

The 4L60-E or any other GM E series transmission utilizes a line pressure control system during up-shifts to compensate for the normal wear of transmission components. By adjusting the line pressure, the PCM can maintain acceptable transmission shift times. This process is known as "adaptive learning" or "shift adapts" and is similar to the closed loop fuel control system used for the engine.

In order for the power=train control module (PCM) to perform a "shift adapt," it must first identify if an up-shift is acceptable to analyze. For example, up-shifts that occur during cycling of the A/C compressor or under extreme throttle changes could cause the PCM to incorrectly adjust line pressure. When an up-shift is initiated, a number of contingencies, such as throttle position, transmission temperature, and vehicle speed, are checked in order to determine if the actual shift time is valid to compare to a calibrated desired shift time. If all the contingencies are met during the entire shift, then the shift is considered valid and the adapt function may be utilized if necessary.

Once an adaptable shift is identified, the PCM compares the actual shift time to the desired shift time and calculates the difference between them. This difference is known as the shift error. The actual shift time is determined from the time that the PCM commands the shift to the start of the engine RPM drop initiated by the shift. If the actual shift time is longer than the calibrated desired shift time, a soft feel or slow engagement, then the PCM decreases current to the pressure control (PC) solenoid in order to increase line pressure for the next, same, up-shift under identical conditions. If the actual shift time is shorter than the calibrated desired shift time, a firm engagement, then the PCM increases current to the PC solenoid in order to decrease line pressure for the next, same, up-shift under identical conditions.

The purpose of the adapt function is to automatically compensate the shift quality for the various vehicle shift control systems. It is a continuous process that will help to maintain optimal shift quality throughout the life of the vehicle's transmission.:D

Hope this helps and class is over for now

Molson02536
 
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If you have a 2 wd now, your going to have to beef up the rear end.

Motor wise, if your going to stay with a V6, drop in a marine 4.3 block. The block will have a 4 bolt main as to having a 2 bolt maine in a car block.
Molson02536



OK. right off the bat thanks for all the info. im taking notes for future project endeavor ideas :)

UPDATE: Pulled 89 Motor @ 101K, scrapped the truck, (bent frame) and picked up a 91, 2wd, 4door to drive around while i strip down the old motor and prep it for a S/C (swap for the 4door later on.)


NOW..

1. As far as the rear upgrade i just got a Killer deal on a 93 typhoon rear end.
With All Same internals (minus axle length/spline count) as my 4door: 7.625, 3.42's and a rebuilt auburn posi unit.

Problem is, im pretty sure the typhoons run the wider rear axle. (similar to the 4x4 S-series or Gen 3 Camaros) and personally i think that "tires outside of the body line" is a terrible look.

SOO.. since im running all the other internals, would i be able to pull the posi unit out of the typhoon, and slap it in my 2wd rear housing? If not, what else would i have to replace in order to run it??

2. You mentioned a "Marine Block." what exactly did you mean??
Like a chevy boat, with a 4-Cap V6?? where can i find one??

Keep the great info'a rollin!!
-Thanks
 


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