Traveling on I-44, engine just stopped and we coasted to an exit ramp (fortunately). Took to our auto mechanic and he checked it and ran tests and couldn't locate the problem. Two years ago we had the same problem and the same mechanic replaced the ignition switch and it worked for two years. He couldn't find anything wrong with the ignition switch. It has stopped 4-5 times since then in town.
Why would our '97 GMC Suburban lose power suddenly going down the highway?
- Thread starter NanaPeg39
- Start date
Just because he could not find anything wrong, he still should have tried a replacement on the off chance its the same thing all over again. Did he replace the switch with an AC Delco or GM part? If not beware of aftermarket electrical parts, lots of junk on the market coming from China. Many of these parts will go for months and then suddenly die for no apparent reason because the are made of low quality parts.
I think I would be inclined to tell him to put a new GM ignition switch in and see what happens. I would not settle for any parts that are made in China and beware, most of the big box auto parts store sell nothing but made in China ignition parts. Demand AC Delco or GM parts..
I think I would be inclined to tell him to put a new GM ignition switch in and see what happens. I would not settle for any parts that are made in China and beware, most of the big box auto parts store sell nothing but made in China ignition parts. Demand AC Delco or GM parts..
Molson02536
New member
Any check engine light came on??? Dirty and restrictive fuel filter or faulty fuel pump will not set any Check engine light. Also a bad ICM (ignition control module) will casue the engine to stop working also. If you can get a Tech2 scanner and have your ECM checked for any DTC codes that will hope fully lead to what is causing you to have your engine to stop working would be great.
There is just to many things that can cause you engine to stop working and as mentioned, a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter will not set any DTC codes.
Keep me posted and start with the simple and replace the fuel filter and check your fuel pressure at the shredder valve, you should have a reading of 62-65 PSI with the engine not running and the ignition turned on to the run position.
If you think it's your ignition switch that has gone bad again, here is a simple test is to check for ignition voltage at the "ECM" and "Trans" fuse, #20, 10 amp at the fuse box located at the left (driver's) end of the dash. No power here with the key on and most likely the ignition switch is faulty. This fuse is powered by a white wire from the ignition switch. Check there for power as well, with the key on. If power is not present, the only other test is for power on the red wire at terminal D5 of the ignition switch connector. It is easier to just confirm power on both red wires and not worry about terminal designations.
Keep me posted and you can get your ICM tested at most auto parts store like Auto Zone.