Correct Oil to use?

mintmaine

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Recently purchased a used 2005 Sierra Z71 from a dealership. I didn't ask (will ask next time I talk to them) what kind of oil they put in it, but I assume it's regular oil. If regular oil has been used all of the engines life (90k) would it hurt to immediately change to synthetic, or would it be better to do a blend, then fully synthetic? Thanks
 
I would go for it and sawp to 100% synthetic.

Watch for leaks - can occur with a switch to synthetic

watch for oil usage - can occur with a switch to synthetic

If bad this (these) happen, swap back - no harm done.
 
I have used synthetics for over 30 yrs in GM vehicles.

GM-Guy mentioned a few things but its been my experience those are all myths spread around the internet. I have never had any oil leaks from using synthetic nor have I seen increased oil usage. I have seen guys put it in engine with 150,000 miles on them and not leak. As long as the engine is in sound mechanical condition use can use synthetic at any time. Just be advised that not all synthetic oil is the same. Just like there are many recipes for a cake, there are just as many formulations for synthetic oil. Pick your favorite color bottle and go all out. Good filtration is important with all oils, avoid cheap oil filters and pick a good make like AC Delco, Wix etc.

My 2009 Cadillac came factory filled with synthetic oil as have all Cadillac since 2005ish. Corvettes since the late 90's.

Use a 5W-30 oil, do not use 10W-40, 15W-40 or 20W-50.
 
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I run fully synthetic Mobil 1 in my truck as well as 2 toy's i have and i love it. i dont think i'll use conventional oil ever again....
 
What I had heard and read (who knows how reputable the source was) is that conventional oil has larger molecules, while synthetic has significantly smaller molecules.. and as a result your seals will be used to the larger oil molecules. When you then put in synthetic the seals may leak.

Why is 5W30 the only weight to use, you couldn't/shouldn't use a heavier oil in the summer and lighter oil in the winter?

I think I'll give her a shot and go to fully synthetic.. feedback much appreciated, thanks!
 
What I had heard and read (who knows how reputable the source was) is that conventional oil has larger molecules, while synthetic has significantly smaller molecules.. and as a result your seals will be used to the larger oil molecules. When you then put in synthetic the seals may leak.

Why is 5W30 the only weight to use, you couldn't/shouldn't use a heavier oil in the summer and lighter oil in the winter?

I think I'll give her a shot and go to fully synthetic.. feedback much appreciated, thanks!

I been using conventional oil in my Jimmy with over 365,000 miles in her with no leaks. Just keeping it to the 3000 schedule and have been adding http://www.restoreusa.com/?gclid=CJOC_vaA5qYCFUS5Kgod-zPr1g at every service.

And yes use 5w30, it helps with the fuel economy and get's the oil flowing faster throughout the engine during start ups. Good luck and hope this helps.:D
 
What I had heard and read (who knows how reputable the source was) is that conventional oil has larger molecules, while synthetic has significantly smaller molecules.. and as a result your seals will be used to the larger oil molecules. When you then put in synthetic the seals may leak.

I think I'll give her a shot and go to fully synthetic.. feedback much appreciated, thanks!


Its not the size of the molecules...

Conventional oils – the oils most people are familiar with – are refined from crude oil. Refining is a process of physically separating light oil components from heavy ones. Crude oil contains a full range of different kinds of molecules. Many are similar in weight but not in structure. The refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, so a wide assortment of molecules is present in a finished lubricant made from crude oil stocks.

Some crude oil molecules are not beneficial to the lubrication process. For example, paraffin causes refined lubricants to thicken and flow poorly in cold temperatures. Molecules containing sulfur, nitrogen and other elements invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown, especially in high-temperature applications. Sludge and breakdown products significantly increase wear rates. The assorted molecules of refined lubricants also have different shapes, making lubricant surfaces irregular at the molecular level. As lubricant layers flow across one another during the lubrication process, these irregularities create friction, which consumes power, reduces efficiency and increases heat and wear.



Synthetic lubricants are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than refined from crude oil. That gives them significant advantages over refined oils.

The base stocks from which synthetic lubricants are made contain no sulfur, nitrogen or other elements that invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown. Synthetic lubricants can be used in higher temperatures than refined lubricants without breaking down. Their resistance to breakdown also allows them to be used longer than refined lubricants can be used. Lubricated systems stay cleaner and last longer with synthetics.

The base stocks from which synthetic lubricants are made feature uniform and smooth molecular structures, which ensures low friction as lubricant layers slide across one another. Reduced friction increases energy through-put for greater fuel efficiency and power, and reduces heat and wear for longer equipment life. Molecular uniformity also helps synthetics resist thinning in heat and thickening in cold, which helps them protect better than refined oils over a system’s operating temperature range and helps ensure secure sealing.

Many different kinds of base stocks may be used to create synthetic lubricants, allowing a synthetic to be designed for virtually any application. Some base stocks are ideal for use in extremely cold environments, others are perfect for use in extreme heat. Some are extremely safe in applications in which refined lubricants pose a fire or explosion hazard. Refined oils simply do not offer the design flexibility synthetics offer. The designability of synthetics also allows them to be tailored very specifically to the needs of everyday applications, such as automotive engines, commercial equipment or industrial machinery. That specificity helps ensure long life and peak power, performance and fuel economy from the lubricated system, as well as long lubricant life.
 
That's good to know. Doesn't look like switching should do anything negative, if anything positive, to my engine.
 
Recently purchased a used 2005 Sierra Z71 from a dealership. I didn't ask (will ask next time I talk to them) what kind of oil they put in it, but I assume it's regular oil. If regular oil has been used all of the engines life (90k) would it hurt to immediately change to synthetic, or would it be better to do a blend, then fully synthetic? Thanks

I use a synthetic mobil one oil in my 1999 gmc truck and its still going at 230,000 miles (5w-30 weight). Also use it in my 2007 gmc. Synthetic oil will cause less friction. It cost more but I'm happy with the high mileage I have gotten and will get. Change over to a full synthetic.
 
One of the major advantages of using syn. oil is it's life. You will see most of the newer cars/trucks that come with syn oil are recommended to run to 10,000 before an oil change. This is mainly because they do not "break down" as dino oils do. So if you want to run on extended oil changes then spend the extra bucks and use syn oils. If you still change your oil at 3000 miles I think it is a waste of money to go with syn. It's just economics to me. I have 4 vehicles with mileage ranging from 7,800 to 307,000 miles and don't use syn in any but change oil every 5,000 miles. It's a matter of choice for me.
 
Do you need to flush your engine when swapping? Can you just put in synthetic on the next oil change of vice versa?
 
Normally its just that easy but a flush might be advisable in some circumstances. Depends on what the condition inside the engine is. If you are unaware of how it was previously maintained or it has higher mileage it might be a good idea.

There are several detergent types flush products on the market that are easy to use and safe. AutoRX which takes many miles (hundreds) to work and AMSOIL engine/trans flush takes about 20 min of engine idle. The AutoRX cost much more then the other does, about 2x

I would not use the chemical flush promoted by quick lubes and some shops. To many amateur worker in those places and the chemicals they use can cause concerns later down the road.
 
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I use a synthetic mobil one oil in my 1999 gmc truck and its still going at 230,000 miles (5w-30 weight). Also use it in my 2007 gmc. Synthetic oil will cause less friction. It cost more but I'm happy with the high mileage I have gotten and will get. Change over to a full synthetic.

Hey. I just bought a 2012 GMC Sierra with 136000 miles. I love it but I'm freaking out worried that my trans will go out before I get it paid for. It hard downshifts into second sometimes when driving in town. What's your opinion? Should I be worried? Should I try to have it fixed?
 


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